Beaches in Grado, Italy, are far less crowded in early September than they are in August when a majority of Italians take their holidays. (Kent Harris/Stars and Stripes)
The Italian coastline between Venice and Trieste is dotted with small towns that swell dramatically into seaside resorts during the summer months.
Separated from the rest by the Marano Lagoon, Grado isn’t dramatically different from Caorle, Lido, Lignano and Jesolo. They all boast countless beach chairs along the Adriatic Sea and plenty of sun.
Sunbathers lounge in rented chairs while others cool off in the waters of the Adriatic Sea on one of the largest beaches in Grado, Italy. The city, a popular place for Germans and Austrians every summer, is just about an hour’s drive from Aviano Air Base. (Kent Harris/Stars and Stripes)
For those who aren’t sure whether they want to show a sunlight-starved body in a bikini, show no fear here, because the many tourists from Germany and Austria that come here certainly aren’t.
The Germanic visitors aren’t new to this area; Friuli-Venezia Giulia was once a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, after all.
Small crabs scurry along a rock that serves to protect a concrete pier extending into the Adriatic Sea from the city of Grado, Italy. (Kent Harris/Stars and Stripes)
And various tribes from north and east were moving through the area much earlier than that with the fall of the Roman Empire. Aquileia, formerly one of the Romans’ most important cities, is only a few miles away.
Dozens of boats are parked along a canal that separates much of the residential area of Grado from the city's commercial core. Probably the best places to park for visitors are in diagonal spaces along a small road just to the left of this view. (Kent Harris/Stars and Stripes)
Evidence of that is, in theory, on display in the National Museum of Underwater Archaeology of the Upper Adriatic. A Roman merchant vessel was found decades ago off the coast. But the museum is a frequent target of scorn from reports that say it’s never open, as was the case last time I was there.
Much of the city’s core features multistory buildings for commercial and residential use that can be seen in just about any city in the region. A few of the hotels try to stand out architecturally.
The Italian city of Grado does offer multiple blocks of shady pedestrian streets for those who don't feel like staying at the beach. There are numerous restaurants and stores available. (Kent Harris/Stars and Stripes)
There are numerous pedestrian streets nicely lined with shady trees where tourists can check out clothes, souvenirs or dine on Italian seafood. Ristorante Al Viale gets high marks, albeit from a mostly non-Italian clientele.
A large concrete barrier helps protect the Italian city of Grado from storm surges of the Adriatic Sea. But it also serves as a walkway between the city’s main beaches and a place for sunbathers to do their thing. (Kent Harris/Stars and Stripes)
But most don’t come to Grado for the shade or the city blocks. That large concrete barrier serves as a walkway between two main beach areas. The beach to the west features hundreds of lounge chairs for rent.
A few more sophisticated ones have nicer chairs and curtains. Daily prices range from 5 euros for a sun chair to 6 euros for an umbrella, to 40 euros for a curtained gazebo. But the real indicator about the nature of Grado is that price plans exist not only for weeks or even months, but seasons.
There is generally plenty of sun over the city of Grado, Italy. But don't expect to see bikini-clad ladies in capes flying over the place very often. This vintage sign made of mosaic tiles comes from an area of Friuli Venezia-Giulia famous for such works. (Kent Harris/Stars and Stripes)
So, while merchants and residents in nearby Venice complain of day-tripping hordes of tourists, that doesn’t appear to be a concern here.
A day trip from Aviano Air Base remains very viable, though. And for those looking for long days of sightseeing, ancient mosaics at Aquileia and the fortress city of Palmanova – which also boasts an outlet mall – are just minutes away.
There are lots of boats parked in a few canals around the city of Grado. Almost all of them appear to be smaller pleasure boats. But there are some fishing vessels that help support the restaurants that dot the Italian city. (Kent Harris/Stars and Stripes)
harris.kent@stripes.com Twitter: @kharris4stripes
On the QT
Directions: Grado is just more than an hour’s drive from Aviano. Take the A28 to the A4 autostrada and head towards Trieste. Take the Palmanova exit and then the SR252 (through Aquileia) to Grado.
Times: Beaches are generally closed when the sun goes down. Other than some restaurants and hotels, much of the city follows suit.
Cost: There’s pay parking places in spots, but there are free places near the large canal that separates the commercial and residential sectors. Turn left at the second traffic circle, cross the bridge, drive a block and turn right to find a narrow road. Park uphill facing the canal.
Information: The tourist office is at Campo Porta Nuova No. 26, Angolo Piazza XXVI Maggio. Phone: (39) 0431 877111; Email: info.grado@promoturismo.fvg.it; Online: facebook.com/grado.turismo
