WEST ROW — My mama used to say, "Life is like a village pub. You never know what you’re gonna get."

OK, she never said that, and it’s a blatant "Forrest Gump" rip-off, but it’s true. Some village pubs are quality affairs, and some are so poorly run that they barely seem like a business at all. What’s more to the point, you don’t know my mama.

But Judes Ferry, a cozy joint in West Row not two minutes from Mildenhall, is a good village pub. It’s spacious, airy and a quality choice for a weekday lunch or a bigger squadron-style party.

"We can get up to 100 people in our dining area," said owner Matt Agombar, who has run Judes Ferry for the past 15 years. "We’ll cater to any party or function."

Agombar said he gets a lot of airmen in during the holidays, mainly units who are hosting Christmas "do’s."

Despite the capacity to book groups in its large space, Agombar said he tries to accommodate families, individuals or tourists in the area.

The Ferry serves entrees that seem the epitome of comfort food. There’s the char-grilled venison steak or the wild mushroom risotto, sure to warm your soul in these dark and chilly winter months.

But Agombar said he prides himself on the fish dishes, which are locally bought. Items of note to try include the pan-fried sea bass fillet, served with a pea puree crust, sautéed potatoes and fried chorizo.

Entrees run between 12 and 15 pounds, but there’s a less-expensive menu featuring sandwiches, starters and other quality vittles.

In case you’re wondering where the name came from, the area around Judes Ferry was surrounded by a sort of inland fen sea back in pre-Roman times, and the area was used by the Romans when it was a lot more watery.

If you’ve got a hungry group to feed, Agombar and his staff will take care of you.

"We try and cater to everyone," he said.

Location: Ferry Lane, West Row, IP 28 8PT

Details: 01638-712277, or www.judesferry.co.uk