Subscribe
Flowers bloom in front of large letters that spell out “Mannem,” the slang name for Mannheim, Germany. The building behind it was once a U.S. Army warehouse at the former Spinelli Barracks.

Flowers bloom in front of large letters that spell out “Mannem,” the slang name for Mannheim, Germany. The building behind it was once a U.S. Army warehouse at the former Spinelli Barracks. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

Where U.S. Army tanks, trucks, supplies and other gear once were repaired, shipped and stored, millions of flowers now bloom and thousands of trees grow.

Spinelli Barracks in Mannheim, Germany, has been transformed from a giant military logistics hub into the home of the Bundesgartenschau, or federal horticulture show.

Known as BUGA, the show takes place every two years in a different location. This year’s is in Mannheim and runs until Oct. 8.

A vintage photo displayed at the Bundesgartenschau in Mannheim, Germany, shows the U.S. Army’s Spinelli Barracks, with its warehouses and military vehicles.

A vintage photo displayed at the Bundesgartenschau in Mannheim, Germany, shows the U.S. Army’s Spinelli Barracks, with its warehouses and military vehicles. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

The barracks, named after Pfc. Dominic Spinelli, an Army medic killed in World War II, were turned over to the German government when the Americans left in 2012 after 64 years there.

The question was what to do with the more than 200-acre expanse of buildings, warehouses and motor pools. Besides building residential areas on its periphery, officials decided to leave most of it as a nature preserve and a fresh air corridor for the city — and in 2023, to hold the BUGA on its grounds.

A fountain sprays a watery mist at the Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA, in Mannheim, Germany. The building surrounding it, known as the U-Halle, was a warehouse at what used to be the U.S. Army’s Spinelli Barracks. The German federal horticultural show being held there runs until Oct. 8, 2023.

A fountain sprays a watery mist at the Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA, in Mannheim, Germany. The building surrounding it, known as the U-Halle, was a warehouse at what used to be the U.S. Army’s Spinelli Barracks. The German federal horticultural show being held there runs until Oct. 8, 2023. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

A display at the Bundesgartenschau in Mannheim, Germany, shows how covering a building’s facade with plants can help to keep it cooler.

A display at the Bundesgartenschau in Mannheim, Germany, shows how covering a building’s facade with plants can help to keep it cooler. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

Millions of plants and flower bulbs were put in the ground, along with 2,023 trees. A giant old warehouse, called the U-Halle because of its shape, was built back partially to its steel girders and now houses BUGA exhibits and gastronomy.

The most impressive new structure in Spinelli Park is the Panoramasteg, or panorama walkway, a 143-foot-long footbridge that just ends hanging over the Augewaesser, a small lake.

The Panoramasteg, or panorama walkway, seen from the BUGA cable car. It is a 143-foot long footbridge over the Augewaesser, a small lake. After the horticultural show ends Oct. 8, 2023, the bridge is to be expanded over the lake, to connect the nature preserve there with the one that was once the U.S. Army’s Spinelli Barracks.

The Panoramasteg, or panorama walkway, seen from the BUGA cable car. It is a 143-foot long footbridge over the Augewaesser, a small lake. After the horticultural show ends Oct. 8, 2023, the bridge is to be expanded over the lake, to connect the nature preserve there with the one that was once the U.S. Army’s Spinelli Barracks. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

From a tower on the show’s grounds, visitors look out over the expansive grounds of the Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA, in Mannheim, Germany. The site was once the U.S. Army’s Spinelli Barracks.

From a tower on the show’s grounds, visitors look out over the expansive grounds of the Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA, in Mannheim, Germany. The site was once the U.S. Army’s Spinelli Barracks. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

After the show concludes in October, it will be expanded over the lake to connect the nature preserve there with the park.

The entrance to the BUGA is on the site of what was once a motor pool. The U-Halle with its exhibits is behind it. Pass through or around it and you come to various gardens and tree nurseries.

Most of the trees planted for the show are to be replanted post-BUGA in other parts of Mannheim in need of shade.

A display at the Bundesgartenschau in Mannheim, Germany, shows a sustainable way to grow herbs and vegetables. The focus of Germany’s federal horticulture show is gardens, flowers, sustainability and the environment.

A display at the Bundesgartenschau in Mannheim, Germany, shows a sustainable way to grow herbs and vegetables. The focus of Germany’s federal horticulture show is gardens, flowers, sustainability and the environment. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

Visitors walk through the plant show house in Mannheims Luisenpark. The hothouse was upgraded for the BUGA and features flora and fauna from South America.

Visitors walk through the plant show house in Mannheims Luisenpark. The hothouse was upgraded for the BUGA and features flora and fauna from South America. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

Along with the flowers and the gardens, the focus of this year’s BUGA is climate, environment, energy and food security. Among the exhibits is one on sustainable ways to grow herbs and vegetables. Another shows how covering a building’s facade with plants can help to keep the building and the environment cooler.

But not everything is serious here. There are playgrounds, a disc golf area and a giant rope jungle gym that features a slide where you can glide from the top to the bottom.

Children play on a huge rope jungle gym at the  Bundesgartenschau, the German federal horticultural show in Mannheim, Germany, in June 2023. While probably more interesting for adults, there is plenty for the kids to do on the shows expansive grounds.

Children play on a huge rope jungle gym at the Bundesgartenschau, the German federal horticultural show in Mannheim, Germany, in June 2023. While probably more interesting for adults, there is plenty for the kids to do on the shows expansive grounds. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

A visitor to the Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA, in Mannheim, Germany, cools her feet in a display that shows the sustainability of water in the garden. The German federal horticultural show runs until Oct. 8.

A visitor to the Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA, in Mannheim, Germany, cools her feet in a display that shows the sustainability of water in the garden. The German federal horticultural show runs until Oct. 8. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

Even with all these features, Spinelli Park is still a huge expanse of nature. Two towers offer great views of the grounds. If you get tired walking, a hybrid-powered train circles through the park, with stops at various spots along the way.

A cable car (to be dismantled after the show) takes visitors across the countryside and over the Neckar River to the BUGA’s second site, the Luisenpark. Built for the 1975 Bundesgartenschau, it has been incorporated into this year’s show. Its center has been remodeled and upgraded.

A cable car takes visitors to the  Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA, in Mannheim, Germany, from the Luisenpark, seen here, to the show’s other location at Spinelli Park and back again.

A cable car takes visitors to the Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA, in Mannheim, Germany, from the Luisenpark, seen here, to the show’s other location at Spinelli Park and back again. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

A display garden at the Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA in Mannheim, Germany, shows how to mix art with horticulture. The German federal horticultural show runs until Oct. 8.

A display garden at the Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA in Mannheim, Germany, shows how to mix art with horticulture. The German federal horticultural show runs until Oct. 8. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

A colorful flower decoration display at the Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA, in Mannheim, Germany. The display was in the U-Halle, a former warehouse at what used to be the U.S. Army’s Spinelli Barracks.

A colorful flower decoration display at the Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA, in Mannheim, Germany. The display was in the U-Halle, a former warehouse at what used to be the U.S. Army’s Spinelli Barracks. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

Visitors can walk through the plant show house, a hot house that features flora and fauna from South America or watch the park’s Humboldt penguins swim in their new enclosure and birds fly through a giant aviary.

The rose garden is one of many flower gardens at the Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA in Mannheim, Germany. The federal horticultural show runs until Oct. 8, 2023.

The rose garden is one of many flower gardens at the Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA in Mannheim, Germany. The federal horticultural show runs until Oct. 8, 2023. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

Beds of perennials, along with peonies, camellia, rhododendrons and fuchsias add color to the park, and visitors can relax on one of the Luisenpark’s grassy meadows.

The cable car ride back across the river offers a good view of the Spinelli Barracks buildings that escaped the wrecking ball.

The Bundesgartenschau has a lot to see, do and learn in a park named after a soldier who received a Silver Star for his bravery.

The entrance to the Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA, in Mannheim, Germany, was once a motor pool at the former U.S. Army Spinelli Barracks. Germany’s federal horticultural show runs until Oct. 8.

The entrance to the Bundesgartenschau, or BUGA, in Mannheim, Germany, was once a motor pool at the former U.S. Army Spinelli Barracks. Germany’s federal horticultural show runs until Oct. 8. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

On the QT

Directions: There is no public parking near the BUGA. Visitors arriving by car should park at the Maimarktgelaende, where there is a park-and-ride stop. Plug Wilhelm-Varnholt-Allee into your navigation system and then follow the signs. Arriving by train at Mannheim’s main station, a BUGA-Express takes you to the grounds. The ticket is included with admission.

Times: There are ticket desks at both Spinelli-Park and the Luisenpark. They are open from 9 am to 7 p.m. The park stays open until sundown, longer when there is evening entertainment.

Costs: Admission is 28 euros for adults age 25 and up; 11 euros for young adults and free for children up to age 15. Two-day and season tickets are available. You can buy tickets online. Parking is 9.50 euros. The hybrid train costs 4 euros. You can get on and off at the stops while traveling one time around.

Food: Restaurants are spread through the park, including a food truck courtyard that serves burgers, pizza and Asian street food.

Information: Online: buga23.de. On sunny days, don’t forget to bring sunscreen. There is very little shade at Spinelli Park.

author picture
Mike is a photographer in Kaiserslautern, Germany. He has covered stories for Stripes throughout Europe, the Middle East, Africa and Afghanistan. Born in Peoria, Ill., he graduated from DODEA’s now-defunct Frankfurt American High School.

Sign Up for Daily Headlines

Sign up to receive a daily email of today's top military news stories from Stars and Stripes and top news outlets from around the world.

Sign Up Now