A color guard of Belgian and American soldiers marches in a parade on Saturday, Dec. 14, 2013, in Bastogne, Belgium. The parade was one of several events designed to commemorate the successful defense of the town by Allied forces in World War II. (Josh Smith/Stars and Stripes)
[Editor's note: An earlier version of this story included an incorrect reference to a Battle of the Bulge re-enactment in Baugnez on Dec. 17-18. This article has been updated to remove this.]
The holidays are here; gas up the Sherman tank.
December is an extra special time for Belgium. Along with Christmas markets, presents and New Year’s Eve, there’s the cheerfully aggressive joy of celebrating a good-old Nazi thrashing.
This year marks the 70th anniversary of the Battle of the Bulge, Germany’s final, ill-fated offensive of World War II, which kicked off nearly two weeks before Christmas 1944. Though caught by surprise, American forces in the Ardennes rallied and drove back the Germans in what would be the bloodiest battle of the war for the U.S.
As it does every year, Belgium will pay tribute to the victors in a range of ways.
Platoons of military re-enactors in period American uniforms will gather in local pubs for beers served in miniature ceramic helmets. Civilians will march along frozen trails in the footsteps of long-departed GIs. Young and old will gather around monuments and recall greater and lesser acts of heroism committed by American soldiers.
The main commemorations occur in Bastogne, a key crossroads where elements of the U.S. Army’s 101st Airborne Division were outmanned 5-1 and surrounded by Nazi forces. When the Germans demanded the Americans’ surrender, acting 101st commander Anthony McAuliffe sent back a one-word reply that has become the backbone of Bastogne’s celebration: “Nuts.”
The colonel who delivered the perplexing reply explained to the puzzled Germans that it meant they could go straight to hell. The locals, meanwhile, have adopted a much more literal take on McAuliffe’s mild cuss. Hewing to a tradition started decades ago, dignitaries will gather on the balcony of Bastogne’s town hall on Saturday to toss handfuls of walnuts into the crowd.
This year’s event, though, is bigger than usual, with Belgium’s king and queen making an appearance Saturday afternoon. Bastogne, no doubt, will live up to its reputation as home of the biggest Bulge party in Europe.
Events taken place Dec. 13 in Bastogne include:
Annual commemorative walk departs the Sports Center at 8 a.m. Register the day before or the morning of the walk. Choose from distances of 8, 12 or 20 kilometers. Wreath laying at Bastogne’s Patton monument at 2:05 p.m. and at McAuliffe Square at 2:20 p.m. Nuts throw at Bastogne’s town hall at 3:15 p.m. Glenn Miller concert at Bastogne’s Place St Pierre at 7 p.m. These events are far from the only ones, though. The passage of time seems only to amplify the Belgians’ interest in preserving the memory of the Bulge. Along with marches, exhibitions and re-enactments, a handful of new plaques and memorials will be unveiled this year in towns across the Ardennes.
Other events and celebrations marking the battle’s 70th anniversary:
Now through Jan. 31: Free photo exhibition featuring photographs of the village of Gouvy during World War I and World War II at the Galerie du S.I., Rue de la Gare 31, Gouvy, Belgium. Dec. 12: The exhibition “From Texas to Bastogne, Texas Aggies go to War,” telling the story of five Texas A&M alums who fought in the Bulge, opens Friday in Bastogne. Dec. 13-14: Re-enactment in Recogne/Cobru, about five miles northeast of Bastogne, including street decorations and re-enactors representing the 101st Airborne and 10th Armored Divisions. Dec. 14: Unveiling of Desobry monument - Noville, 11 a.m. Dec. 14: Parade of military vehicles along Bastogne’s Grand’ Rue, 3 p.m. Dec. 14: Remembrance of the Malmedy Massacre at the memorial at the corner of the Route du Monument and Route de Luxembourg in Baugnez, Belgium, 2 p.m. Jan. 10: March in the footsteps of the 83rd Division, Bihan, Belgium, 9 a.m. Participation limited to 300 people. Go to www.11janvier45.skyrock.com for more information. Feb. 21: March in the footsteps of the 82nd Airborne Division. Outside of Bastogne, this is the biggest walking commemoration of the Bulge. Re-enactors and civilians welcome. Walk starts at 9 a.m. in La Gleize, Belgium. For more information email freddy.vanput@skynet.be or emile.lacroix@skynet.be For events and information, check out the online commemorations page.
Take note that it might be too late to book accommodations nearby for many of these events, particularly Bastogne, where hotels rooms are at a premium this time of year. Parking is also limited and driving through town is, in some cases, impossible. Prepare for a lot of walking.
millham.matthew@stripes.com Twitter: @mattmillham