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The National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial in Taiwan’s capital honors the  Nationalist Chinese president whose forces retreated to the island in 1949.

The National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial in Taiwan’s capital honors the Nationalist Chinese president whose forces retreated to the island in 1949. (Seth Robson/Stars and Stripes)

The National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial, in Taiwan’s capital of Taipei, honors a former Chinese president whose defeated forces retreated to the island in 1949.

The generalissimo ruled the Republic of China on Taiwan from 1928 until his death in 1975. His rule was restricted to the island after Nationalist forces were defeated by Mao Zedong’s Communists in China’s civil war.

You can walk to the memorial, which opened in 1980, in under 30 minutes from Taipei’s main train station.

A typical route passes through the Gate of Great Centrality and Perfect Uprightness, which is about as tall as a large office building.

Visitors can also approach the memorial through a Gate of Great Loyalty and a Gate of Great Piety, which are much smaller.

Inside the gates is Liberty Square, a spacious plaza flanked by two massive concert halls that resemble ancient Chinese buildings.

Visitors to the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial in Taipei have a panoramic view of Liberty Square.

Visitors to the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial in Taipei have a panoramic view of Liberty Square. (Seth Robson/Stars and Stripes)

Liberty Square was the scene of pro-democracy demonstrations in the 1980s and 1990s but these days you might see performers practicing hip-hop dance moves outside the concert halls.

A park surrounding the memorial is home to a variety of birds and insects as well as red-bellied squirrels.

The memorial itself is at the top of 89 stone stairs, referencing Chiang Kai-shek’s age when he died.

At the top of the stairs, visitors have a panoramic view of Liberty Square, where a Taiwanese flag flies atop a massive pole.

The white memorial hall has a blue octagonal roof. The number eight in China represents abundance and good luck.

A soldier stands guard at the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial in Taipei on Jan. 15, 2023.

A soldier stands guard at the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial in Taipei on Jan. 15, 2023. (Seth Robson/Stars and Stripes)

Inside the memorial sits a giant statue of Chiang Kai-shek flanked by armed soldiers.

The guards change each hour in a solemn ceremony that resembles the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at Arlington National Cemetery in Virginia.

On the QT

Directions: From Taipei Main Station walk south one mile, past the National Taiwan Museum and through the Peace Memorial Park to Chung Shan South Road and pass through the Gate of Great Centrality and Perfect Uprightness

Times: Honor guards change hourly between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m.

Costs: Free

Food: Numerous restaurants and street vendors on the streets south of Taipei Main Station

Information: Online: National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall - Home

author picture
Seth Robson is a Tokyo-based reporter who has been with Stars and Stripes since 2003. He has been stationed in Japan, South Korea and Germany, with frequent assignments to Iraq, Afghanistan, Haiti, Australia and the Philippines.

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