An avocado cheeseburger with egg from 9 Hamburger & Dining Bar in Tokyo. (Jeremy Stillwagner/Stars and Stripes)
A few blocks from Tabata Station, far from central Tokyo’s neon sprawl, a humble storefront marked 9 Hamburger & Dining Bar quietly opens its doors for just a few hours each day.
Blink and you might miss it, but this is where burger dreams are built, one glorious beef patty at a time.
Inside, the space is as intimate as a jazz bar — maybe 20 seats total, most of them lining the counter. There are two small tables tucked in the back.
Open briefly in the morning and again around midday, 9 Hamburger & Dining Bar offers a rotating menu of breakfast sandwiches and light bites for people heading to work, before closing to prepare for the inevitable lunch crowd.
The Kanki Burger, its best-seller, is an ode to excess done right, featuring a thick, juicy patty crowned with a substantial slab of bacon.
With the exception of the sweet-and-savory Maple Bacon Cheeseburger, every hamburger is layered with lettuce, tomato and the house’s twin signature sauces — one a tangy blend of ketchup, mayo, relish and French mustard; the other a creamy mix of mayo, honey and whole-grain mustard.
Each burger comes with a side of fresh potato wedges that should leave you comfortably full.
Customization is encouraged. Want egg? Add it. Avocado? You got it. Double bacon? Don’t be shy. Depending on how many extras you have the staff pile on, the burgers can get quite tall and messy. Thankfully, there are burger wrappers nearby to keep your meal manageable.
The best-stelling Kanki Burger from 9 Hamburger & Dining Bar in Tokyo. (Jeremy Stillwagner/Stars and Stripes)
Beverage options range from soda and coffee to craft beer and wine, and there are English menus available, a rarity in this residential stretch of Tokyo.
9 Hamburger & Dining Bar is not a destination restaurant in the traditional sense. You won’t find sweeping city views. But for those who seek it out — and time it right — it’s well worth the effort.
9 Hamburger & Dining Bar
Location: 2-8-3 Higashi Tabata, Kita City, Tokyo 114-0013
Hours: Open 6 a.m. to 9:30 a.m., Tuesday thru Saturday; 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. on weekdays; and 11:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. on weekends. Closed Monday.
Prices: Most items range from 800 yen to 2,000 yen ($5.30 to $13.25)
Dress: Casual
Directions: At Tabata Station, take the North Exit, cross the street and turn right. At the intersection, take the ramp to street level. Cross and continue straight for about a minute. The restaurant will be on the right.
Information: 080-4924-2629; www.instagram.com/nine9tabata