Samgyetang, or ginseng chicken soup, from Palace Black Hoof Mushroom Samgyetang near Camp Humphreys, South Korea. (Yoojin Lee/Stars and Stripes)
At the height of South Korea’s sweltering summer, lines stretch outside many local eateries as diners seek a centuries-old remedy for the heat: Samgyetang, or ginseng chicken soup.
The tradition centers on Boknal — the three hottest days of the lunar calendar: Chobok, Joongbok and Malbok — which usually fall between July and August. Rooted in Eastern philosophy and folk medicine, Boknal cuisine follows the belief of iyeolchiyeol, or “fighting heat with heat.”
One popular destination near Camp Humphreys, Palace Black Hoof Mushroom Samgyetang, specializes in a variation of this nourishing broth that pays homage to royal court cuisine.
Palace Black Hoof Mushroom Samgyetang uses a broth enriched by 16 medicinal ingredients, including stachys affinis, also known as Chinese artichoke. (Yoojin Lee/Stars and Stripes)
The restaurant’s signature dish features a whole young chicken stuffed with a ball of herb-infused rice and simmered in a broth enriched by 16 medicinal ingredients, including stachys affinis, also known as Chinese artichoke.
Served piping hot in a traditional earthenware bowl that retains heat well beyond the final spoonful, this soup is both mild and fragrant. Salt is offered on the side, allowing diners to season to taste or to use as a dip for the tender chicken.
The rice — hidden inside the bird and infused with herbal flavor — is best enjoyed when spooned into a separate dish and dipped into the soup gradually.
Side dishes play an essential role for samgyetang. Crisp pickled radish and onions, fresh salad, and classic kimchi help balance the menu’s warmth with cool, acidic crunch. (Yoojin Lee/Stars and Stripes)
Side dishes play an essential role. Crisp pickled radish and onions, fresh salad and classic kimchi help balance the menu’s warmth with cool, acidic crunch. The experience becomes a rhythm: One sip of soup, one bite of a chilled side, and repeat.
Ingredients like ginseng and chicken promote restorative energy, replenishing nutrients lost through sweat and helping the body withstand extreme temperatures, according to traditional medicine. The inclusion of black hoof mushroom — revered for its immune-boosting and cognitive benefits — is a nod to the restaurant’s aim of re-creating a dish fit for royalty.
Palace Black Hoof Mushroom Samgyetang uses a whole young chicken stuffed with a ball of herb-infused rice. (Yoojin Lee/Stars and Stripes)
Priced at 15,000 won (about $11) for a whole chicken and 10,000 won for a half portion, this meal is both hearty and affordable.
But diners be warned: The kitchen closes from 2:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m., and the soup often sells out by early afternoon. On Boknal days, reservations are strongly recommended.
Palace Black Hoof Mushroom Samgyetang
Location: 72-5, Paengseongdaegyo-gil, Paengseong-eup, Pyeongtaek-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea
Hours: Open daily, expect Sundays, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., with a break between 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.
Prices: 10,000 won for a single portion to 70,000 won for a huge pot serving up to five people.
Dress: Casual
Directions: A five-minute drive from the Yoon Gate at Camp Humphreys.
Information: 0507-1365-5016; no English menu
