St. John’s bonfires will take place at various locations in Europe on or around June 23 this year. (iStock)
The long days and short nights around the time of the summer solstice in Europe can be nothing short of magical, and there’s no shortage of places where this singular time of year is feted in full swing. Here are four different settings in which to celebrate the official start of the summer season:
Mountains: The bowl-shaped valley of the Tyrolean Zugspitz Arena in northern Austria lends itself ideally to the annual spectacle known as Bergfeuer, in which the outlines of giant images are placed upon the mountain slopes, waiting for just the right moment to be brought to life. Hearts, crosses and stag heads are amongst the most common motifs carefully laid out by the hundreds of volunteers involved in these efforts. As darkness slowly falls across the land, these images created by bags filled with sawdust and rapeseed oil are set alight and burn brightly for two to three hours before the embers fade into the shadows of the night.
This year’s Bergfeuer have been scheduled to take place on June 21. In the event of thunderstorms or other adverse weather conditions, the date will be rescheduled to June 28. The lit-up shapes and figures can be viewed from approximately 9:45 p.m. Those traveling from Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany might wish to consider parking by the Esso gas station in Ehrwald. Other good vantage points can be found in Lermoos and Biberwier. Online: zugspitz-arena.com/sommer/bergfeuer.html
A similar phenomenon can be witnessed on the eve of the feast day of St. John the Baptist. The numerous bonfires placed along the peaks of the Waxenstein Ridge can be observed from Grainau, a municipality at the foot of the Zugspitz mountain some four miles west of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. These fires, known as Johannifeuer, are always set alight on June 23. Dates and times of other mountaintop illuminations are online at tinyurl.com/2bkuw3a7.
Riverbanks: Two regions along Austria’s stretch of the Danube River celebrate summer solstice with fireworks displays, torchlit vineyards and floating lights upon the river. The Wachau region, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site famous for its unique landscape and crisp white wines, comes alive on the evening on June 21; the Nibelungengau region follows suit on June 28. While many choose to view the phenomenon on board passenger ships, there’s plenty of land-based activity as well. Some of the best places to view the show of lights in the Wachau include the Danube’s embankments in Spitz or Arnsdorf, as well as the beaches in the towns of Weißenkirchen, Dürnstein, Loiben, Rossatzbach and Krems. Online: donau.com/de/sonnenwende
Coastlines: The Hogueras de San Juan, or Bonfires of Saint John, is a longstanding tradition observed across many parts of Spain. Traditions run deep in the city of Alicante, where celebrations take the form of a multi-day festival. Originating from the ancient custom of burning unwanted objects at the time of the summer solstice, elaborate statues known as “hogueras” are paraded through the streets prior to being set alight.
Alicante’s celebrations are accompanied by the election of beauty queens, the setting up of large tents to serve as public dance floors, daily fireworks in the Plaza de los Luceros and a folklore parade featuring dance groups from around the world. The cremà, or burning of the statues, takes place at midnight on the night of 24 to 25 June. In most other areas of Spain, the bonfires are set alight on June 23. Online: tinyurl.com/2bczmxsj
Denmark is another country that wholeheartedly celebrates St. John’s Evening. Throughout the land, “Sankt Hans Aften” is marked by community gatherings featuring singing and the lighting of large bonfires. Many of these bonfires feature the effigy of a witch, whose burning is believed to drive away evil spirits. Cities and towns not located along the coast use parks and sports fields as the sites for their bonfires. While most communities celebrate on the night of June 23, a handful of others hold their festivities on the closest weekends. Online: tinyurl.com/yc4cfybr
Cities: The city of Porto, Portugal, celebrates São João with particular flair. In what’s one of the city’s most anticipated events of the year, celebrations kick off on June 23 and continue until the dawn of the following day. This vibrant midsummer celebration includes informal street parties, live music, the grilling of sardines and playful traditions such as tapping people with plastic hammers, which is supposed to bring them good luck. A good bopping on the head with a purple garlic flower or leek is also purported to bring good fortune. Young and old alike leap over the bonfires lining the city streets, a ritual said to burn away the old and welcome what is new. Another highly anticipated aspect of the night is the launching of fireworks from barges on the Douro River. The dazzling show of color and light, reflected in the waters of the river, is best seen in the vicinity of the Dom Luís I Bridge. Online: tinyurl.com/5n8ecd5x