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Truffles are a food people tend to either love or hate. 

Truffles are a food people tend to either love or hate.  (iStock)

Much like black licorice, coriander, lamb and Brussels sprouts, truffles are a food people tend to either love or hate. There’s a scientific reason behind why this wildly expensive foodstuff that’s notoriously difficult to cultivate is a divider of opinions. The chemical named androstenone, responsible for the truffle’s earthy, musky scent, is imperceivable to roughly a quarter of the population. Moreover, around 40% of us find androstenone utterly intolerable, likening its scent to that of rotten wood or sweat.

Even if you’re not within that third of the population physically wired to enjoy truffles, you can still enjoy the thrill of the chase or the taste of the wines that pair so well with dishes garnished with truffles.

In order for truffles to grow, they need an alkaline, nutrient-rich soil provided by trees such oaks, beech, hazels or poplar. The European countries most commonly associated with truffles include France, Italy, Croatia, and Spain. Other countries produce them too, albeit in far lesser quantities. Here are a few means by which to experience truffles this autumn season and beyond:

Truffle fairs: On all weekends up to Dec. 3, gourmets will find their happy place in Alba, a small city in the province of Cuneo in Piedmont, northern Italy. For over 80 years, visitors have flocked to this city recently officially recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its exceptional vineyard landscape. They eagerly make this trek to indulge in the products showcased at the Fiera Internationale Tartufo Bianco de Alba, or International White Truffle Fair of Alba.

The heart of the fair is the Alba White Truffle World Market, where truffles from the local area are sold by traders working under the auspices of a quality control commission. Nearby, regional specialties and fine wines are offered. The program is rounded off by folkloric events, a donkey palio (race), cooking demos, dinners prepared by top chefs, cookery classes, guided wine tastings and entertainment including live music. It’s wise to book places in any desired courses or tastings in advance of your visit. Online: fieradeltartufo.org/en/truffle-fair/

A number of other truffle fairs are organized throughout Italy, to include the Truffle Fair in Moncalvo, Piedmont, scheduled for Oct. 22 and 29; the National White Truffle Fair of Acqualagna in Urbino (Oct. 28-29 and Nov. 1, 4-5, and 11-12); the National White Truffle Exhibition in San Miniato, Tuscany (Nov. 11-12, 18-19 and 25-26) and the His Majesty the Truffle festival In Brisighella, Ravenna (Nov. 19).

Truffle hunts: In Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula, it’s possible to take part in a truffle-hunting experience year-round. One such opportunity is provided by the Karlic family, whose third generation now leads the hunt for truffles. Following the host’s talk about truffles and the truffle-hunting tradition, a search using the family’s special hunting dogs is undertaken. The experience ends with a tasting of truffle products and the opportunity to pick up exceptional items in the shop. Online: karlictartufi.hr/en/lov-na-tartufe

Truffle museum: Maison de la Truffe d’Occitanie, or Museum of the Truffle of Occitania, offers visitors a crash course in all things truffle-related. As visitors make their way through several thematic rooms filled with interactive audiovisual aids, they will learn about the truffle’s history, environment, cultivation, harvest and contribution to gastronomy. The visit concludes with a visit to a shop selling local delicacies. The museum, located in the town of Villeneuve-Minervois in the Aude department and Occitanie region of France, is open daily most days of the year. Adult entry to the museum costs 7.50 euros; children ages seven through 14 pay 4.50 euros, and those ages six and under enter free. Online: maisondelatruffedoccitanie.com

All things truffle: The English Truffle Company, formed in 2010, has been a major player in leading a renaissance of an all-but-forgotten industry. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, England had a moderately thriving truffle industry, and since around 2000, interest in English truffles has renewed. Since its founding, the company has found significant quantities of truffles from woodland sites across southern England. Working in a responsible, sustainable manner, the company supplies leading restaurants, wholesalers, retailers and food manufacturers with a range of high-quality products. The company offers truffle hunting experience days in Dorset, Wiltshire and Hampshire from October to January. Its other activities include running truffle dog training workshops and renting out dogs and their handlers to landowners curious to find out if the fungus known as black gold just might lie beneath their feet. Online: englishtruffles.co.uk

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