Subscribe
A man’s face carved into a tree trunk.

Carved faces peer from the trees around the Devil’s Stone near Frankelbach, Germany, amplifying the site's eerie charm. (Zade Vadnais/Stars and Stripes)

There’s a reason the 9.3-mile hiking trail that begins in the village of Olsbrücken is called the Devil’s Tour.

Just 20 minutes from Kaiserslautern, it lives up to its name with steep climbs, eerie legends and surprisingly heavenly scenery. The route has more than 1,500 feet of elevation gain in a mix of gentle, family-friendly segments and rugged, unmaintained sections.

The hiking crew for this infernal adventure included a husband with Peloton stats that leave me in the dust, a miniature dachshund named Archie and me, an early-30s desk jockey of average athleticism.

Placards marking the trail feature the Kaiserslautern soccer team’s beloved Red Devil mascot, who grins mischievously from tree trunks and signposts.

Around mile 3, we encountered a massive sandstone slab covered in moss and ferns known as the Devil’s Stone. Carved with a flat platform and a sloped edge, the rock was long believed to be a Celtic sacrificial altar.

A piebald miniature dachshund stands on a bench in the woods.

Devil’s Tour paths near the Devil’s Stone by Frankelbach, Germany, seen here, and the Sulzbachtal quarry near Eulenbis are suitable for small hikers and easygoing walks, even for small dogs. (Courtesy photo/Austin Vadnais)

A man stands near a towering sandstone wall.

A former sandstone quarry, abandoned shortly after World War II, provides an excellent spot for hikers to catch their breath following a particularly brutal stretch of the Devil's Tour trail. (Zade Vadnais/Stars and Stripes)

A wooden druid carved from a tree trunk.

A carving of a druid with mouth agape watches silently over the Devil’s Stone near Frankelbach, Germany. (Zade Vadnais/Stars and Stripes)

Legend held that the blood of virgins slain there flowed along a carved groove into a stone basin to be collected for ritualistic purposes.

In reality, it’s the remnants of a third-century Roman sandstone quarry. But the myths linger, and so does the mood. The surrounding clearing is dotted with tree trunks carved into ominous figures including a wailing druid and the devil himself.

There are also plenty of stinging nettles lying in wait in the overgrown clearing. We regretted wearing shorts, and I could almost hear the devil laugh each time my exposed calf made contact with a fiendish leaf.

If you’re interested in seeing only this one feature, you can park in nearby Frankelbach and take a mild half-mile walk. The incline is gentle, the path wide.

Beyond the Devil’s Stone, though, the terrain shifts sharply from forgiving to formidable. A wooden gate labeled “Teufelstour Frankelbach” signals the shift. From there, it’s trampled grass and dense brush.

Wooden carvings of a druid and a pig.

Weathered carvings of a druid and a pig add to the atmosphere surrounding the overgrown Devil’s Stone near Frankelbach, Germany. (Zade Vadnais/Stars and Stripes)

A clearing in the woods.

Carved trees, benches and a picnic table dot the clearing around the Devil's Stone, a third-century Roman quarry once believed to host ritual sacrifices. (Zade Vadnais/Stars and Stripes)

A tree trunk with a devil’s face carved into it.

A carved devil’s face in the trunk of a tree adds to the ominous vibe of the Devil’s Tour hike near Frankelbach, Germany. (Zade Vadnais/Stars and Stripes)

A rocky creek crossing tested Archie’s bravery. The watercourse serves as a bit of a warning, a slippery prelude to the treacherous terrain that lies ahead.

Although Archie summoned his courage and crossed it, small children, the elderly or those with poor balance might not want to risk slipping into the water or falling onto the rocks.

As if the unmaintained trail weren’t enough of a challenge, this is where the incline intensifies. Between the slippery terrain and the devilish elevation gain, we were breathing heavily.

Yet despite all the discomfort of stinging skin and aching muscles, this part of the trail felt enchanted, like stepping into a green cathedral filled with birdsong and filtered light.

At 4.5 miles, the trail lightened up and we got a welcome reprieve at the old Sulzbachtal quarry, which was abandoned after World War II. It’s not as ancient as the Devil’s Stone but just as dramatic, with an imposing sandstone wall standing guard over crumbling blocks.

It offered us a cool spot to catch our breath, take photos and appreciate the area’s layered history. If your only desire is to see this spot, you can park in nearby Eulenbis and follow the Red Devil signs uphill for 1.5 miles. The route is a mild climb on a wide, open gravel road.

Ruins of a sandstone quarry are covered in moss and other plants.

Long believed to be a Celtic sacrificial altar, the Devil’s Stone near Frankelbach, Germany, is actually a third-century Roman sandstone quarry. (Zade Vadnais/Stars and Stripes)

A wooden gate with “Teufelstour Frankelbach” engraved upon it.

A wooden gate near Frankelbach, Germany, marks the transition from a family-friendly stroll to the treacherous inclines of the Devil’s Tour. (Zade Vadnais/Stars and Stripes)

From there, we descended toward the hilltop village of Eulenbis, where the views open wide. Hills roll off to the right. Forests thicken to the left. Cows dot the fields.

At just over 6.5 miles, we passed the Panorama-Gasthof Stemler, a country inn with a scenic terrace. It’s typically open on weekends, but hours can vary, so it’s worth checking ahead if you’re hoping to stop for a glass of wine or a hearty snack.

Though the inn was closed during our visit, the lookout across the road offered its own reward: sweeping vistas, a comically oversized bench and a contemporary sandstone sculpture by German artist Peter Brauchle.

At this point, you can end your hike via a bus stop in Eulenbis or keep going. The trail winds through the village, then slips once more into the forest. After a peaceful final stretch, it ends in Sulzbachtal, where a train can take you back to your starting point in Olsbrücken.

All told, the Devil’s Tour is dramatic, demanding and just a little wicked. Its well-marked start and finish offer accessible beauty, while the unmaintained middle delivers a hellish stretch that demands respect.

With geological curiosities, mythical lore, secret beauty and no crowds, it’s an exercise in endurance with no exorcism required.

A placard featuring a red devil figure is nailed to a post in the woods.

The red devil mascot of Kaiserslautern's soccer team marks the route of the Devil’s Tour, peeking from trees and signposts to keep hikers on track. (Zade Vadnais/Stars and Stripes)

The Devil’s Tour

Address: The trail begins at the Olsbrücken train station and ends at the Sulzbachtal train station.

Hours: Open 24 hours a day, but plan to finish before dark.

Cost: Free

Information: https://www.tourenplaner-rheinland-pfalz.de/de/tour/wanderung/teufelstour-olsbruecken/7079169/#caml=9vg,19k04w,86s88l,0,0&dmdtab=oax-tab1

author picture
Zade is a reporter for Stars and Stripes based in Kaiserslautern, Germany. He has worked in military communities in the U.S. and abroad since 2013. He studied journalism at the University of Missouri and strategic communication at Penn State.

Sign Up for Daily Headlines

Sign up to receive a daily email of today's top military news stories from Stars and Stripes and top news outlets from around the world.

Sign Up Now