Genki Burke, 9, races down the 400-foot hill of sand at Monte Kaolino in Hirschau, Germany. (Matthew M. Burke/Stars and Stripes)
Germans have a reputation for ingenuity, so I wasn’t surprised when I learned that a mountain of mining waste in Bavaria had been transformed into a first-class recreational experience.
Monte Kaolino is an amusement park in the picturesque town of Hirschau, approximately 12 miles south of Tower Barracks in Grafenwoehr. I decided to visit with my wife and kids after seeing a German friend’s photos of the attractions.
The park offers a 400-foot sand skiing and snowboarding trail, a go-kart-like rollercoaster, a water park, a high-rope course, 3D archery and more.
The “mountain” was built over decades, beginning in 1833, from quartz sand that was left over from nearby kaolin mining, according to the park’s website. Kaolin is a soft white clay used in an array of products from paper to porcelain. We arrived at midday on a sunny, brisk Sunday in early May. As we approached, we saw camping cars and cabins for rent. The outdoor pools had just opened for the season, but it was still a bit too chilly for swimming.
We proceeded to the hulking hill, where we watched a steady stream of skiers and snowboarders carve through the coarse sand in T-shirts and shorts.
For those who don’t want to use the lift, a second hill of equal size is open to climb on foot.
None of us ski, so we hiked up the hill. We paused several times as we climbed; our calves burned and we slid back a foot for every few steps of progress.
My oldest son and I had a blast running down the steep slope at ludicrous speed. He had to shake sand out of his hair after crumpling in a heap halfway down and sliding 10 feet.
After climbing the hill, we decided to ride the Monte Coaster, which looks like a go-kart on a small train track that wraps around the mountain from its peak.
We giggled with delight as we sat in the two-person kart and looked down through the trees. It wasn’t as terrifying as it seemed, however, as we could slow ourselves using the handbrake.
The water park at Monte Kaolino in Hirschau, Germany, recently opened for the season. (Matthew M. Burke/Stars and Stripes)
After that, we stopped for ice cream sandwiches and coffee at the Monte Kaolino restaurant before heading to the miniature golf course to end our day.
The 18-hole course was small and relatively simple compared with some of the tourist courses back in my native Cape Cod, but it was highly satisfying. This one used rocks to expertly cut angles and create slopes that misdirected the ball, with several tunnels to shoot through.
Monte Kaolino's miniature golf course in Hirschau, Germany, is small but challenging. (Matthew M. Burke/Stars and Stripes)
While my 6-year-old ran off to find some mischief, my 9-year-old and I locked into a competitive father-son duel, in which I was barely victorious.
I escaped Monte Kaolino with my ego intact, and we all had smiles plastered across our faces.
On the QT
Address: Wolfgang Drossbach Strasse 114, Hirschau, Germany
Hours: Thursday and Friday, 2-6 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m-6 p.m. Open until the end of the autumn holidays. The park may close certain attractions due to inclement weather.
Prices: A roundtrip lift ticket is 3.50 euros for children, 4 euros for adults. One-hour access to the lift and equipment rental costs 25 euros for children, 30 euros for adults.
Information: www.montekaolino-hirschau.de/