The souk in Muharraq, Bahrain, has myriad shops offering everything from clothing and household goods to perfumes, spices and gold jewelry. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
On historic Muharraq Island, north of Manama, Bahrain, there’s a duality to the souk, which blends traditional market life and architectural innovation while underscoring Bahrain’s recent architectural revitalization to boost tourism.
The souk entry connects directly to the Pearling Path, a UNESCO World Heritage site that recalls the time when pearling dominated the local economy before the discovery of oil.
At the heart of the structural revival is Swiss architect Valerio Olgiati’s 72,000-square-foot Brutalist concrete structure, which serves as the Pearling Path visitors center.
A distinctive entry point to the Muharraq souk is the 72,000-square-foot Brutalist concrete structure designed by Swiss architect Valerio Olgiati. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
Swiss architect Valerio Olgiati’s structure in Muharraq, Bahrain, towers over the remnants of an amara, which was a combination of a market, factory and warehouse. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
This building, located over the remnants of an amara — a combination of market, factory and warehouse — features geometric cutouts in the ceiling that offer ample shade.
Olgiati described it as “an urban room with the scale of a public park,” providing a communal space for residents and tourists.
While exploring Muharraq souk, I saw how restored traditional homes and modern architectural statements seamlessly blend despite their juxtaposition. The market is a labyrinth of alleys, but instead of feeling lost, there is a sense of adventure in deciding whether to turn left or right.
People exploring the streets of Muharraq, Bahrain, will most likely come across the many stray street cats that wander the neighborhood and are fed by residents. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
Expect to be bombarded by shopkeepers calling out, haggling over prices as they hawk goods ranging from gold jewelry to counterfeit Nike items. The place abounds in chaos, which peaks in the evenings, but all that bustle sets the region’s markets apart from any other.
Visiting on quieter days allows for more intimate exploration. However, the real treasure lies in engaging with people and gaining a deeper understanding of their crafts and culture.
I was invited into a traditional bakery, where bread was made in a tannour, a time-honored clay oven. Bahrain hadn’t even reached its peak summer temperatures yet, and standing near the heat radiating from the oven gave me a tremendous respect for the baker’s work.
A baker in Muharraq, Bahrain, preps dough for bread before baking it in a traditional tannour oven April 28, 2024. Plain and sweet options are available. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
A baker prepares to pull bread from a traditional tannour oven at a bakery near the souk in Muharraq, Bahrain, on April 28, 2024. Bread from local bakeries is a cheap and delicious food option to enjoy while exploring the souk. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
Bread bakes in a tannour oven at a Bahraini bakery near the Muharraq souk on April 28, 2024. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
In a swift movement, he slapped the dough against the inner wall of the tannour, where it sticks, held in place by the intense heat. It took only seconds for the dough to puff up and bubble to a golden brown.
With a hooked metal rod, the baker carefully peeled the bread from the stone wall of the tannour. I was deeply moved by his generosity when he offered me bread without asking for anything in return.
Interestingly enough, Bahrainis make up only 47.8% of the island’s population while the rest are from other countries, which leads to a rich exchange of cultural practices and perspectives.
A Bahraini flag waves in the distance in the the town of Muharraq. The souk there features a blend of architectural styles and is near the Pearling Path, a UNESCO World Heritage site. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
Traditional facades are still prevalent at the souk in Muharraq, Bahrain, despite concerted efforts by the country to modernize its architecture. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
The souk in Muharraq, Bahrain, still maintains a lot of its traditional facades, but it has been updated with modern construction amid a push by the country to boost tourism through architectural revitalization. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
The Muharraq souk stands out as more than just a traditional Middle Eastern market. It’s an immersive combo of architecture, culture, history and commerce.
Make sure you have comfortable walking shoes, and choose your visiting time based on whether you prefer a mob scene or a more intimate experience. You’re all but guaranteed to leave with your hands, heart and stomach full.
The souk in Muharraq, Bahrain, still maintains many of its traditional facades but has been updated with modern construction as part of the country’s architectural revitalization efforts. The richly textured facade of storefronts feels both futuristic and traditional. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
Sophia bookstore is nestled in the souk in Muharraq, Bahrain, and also offers a cafe for shoppers. The richly textured facade of storefronts feels both futuristic and traditional. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
Address: Road 53, Al Muharraq, Bahrain
Hours: 9 a.m-11 p.m. daily
Cost: Taxi, $8 from NSA Bahrain, Juffair area (street parking is available and Pearling Path Car Park is nearest to the souk)
