Rainbow Street in Amman, Jordan, is a colorful neighborhood in the center of the city and a hot spot for visitors and city residents alike. (J.P. Lawrence/Stars and Stripes)
Picture if you will an urban scene of vibrant colors splashed across buildings, the lively chatter of local folks and tourists mingling, and the aroma of strong coffee and tasty Middle Eastern cuisine wafting through the air.
That’s Rainbow Street, nestled right in the heart of downtown Amman, the capital of Jordan. I’d heard a lot about this “must-see” thoroughfare before setting eyes on it during a recent trip.
Lined with cafes, restaurants and shops for the young and fashionable, Rainbow Street lives up to its name with colorful decorations adorning the buildings and quirky graffiti featuring things like Pokemon and pizza.
The walls on buildings near Rainbow Street in Amman, Jordan, are known for their colorful graffiti and street art. (J.P. Lawrence/Stars and Stripes)
Rainbow Street in Amman, Jordan, is known for its cafes, restaurants and nightlife. (J.P. Lawrence/Stars and Stripes)
The U.S. has a significant military presence in Jordan, and service members deployed there had given me recommendations on what and where to eat.
But nothing could quite prepare me for the bustling energy that greeted me. Also, Amman is filled with hills, and Rainbow Street straddles a hilltop that offers stunning panoramas of the surrounding scenery.
Cafes and shops, mostly family-owned, line the street. Well-fed cats sauntered past the shops, and the beefy felines allowed me to pet them.
Small cafes and coffee houses are among the charms to be found on Rainbow Street in Amman, Jordan. Although the area is comparatively more expensive, the atmosphere is worth it. (J.P. Lawrence/Stars and Stripes)
I found myself drawn to a cozy little spot called 1212 the Mid Coffeehouse. I spent hours there since the owners let me use their Wi-Fi and plug in my laptop.
I listened to their eclectic collection of local music and 1990s rock as I soaked in the literary vibes. Other customers came by and I could overhear their passionate arguments about geopolitics.
After nightfall, I ordered a delicious dinner spread that included hummus, halvah, pita and date molasses. The cafe owner, possessing trademark Jordanian hospitality, kept giving me more and more food.
A dinner spread at a cafe in Rainbow Street in Amman, Jordan, included hummus, halvah, pita and date molasses. The cats that roam the street are also well-fed. (J.P. Lawrence/Stars and Stripes)
The restaurants on Rainbow Street in Amman, Jordan, often have rooftop areas affording fine views of the capital. The U.S. military has a sizeable number of personnel stationed in Jordan. (J.P. Lawrence/Stars and Stripes)
I then went to Mijana, another spot on Rainbow Street that was recommended to me as a great place to eat Jordan’s trademark dish, known as mansaf. The meal consisted of a hearty portion of lamb, bread, rice and yogurt sauce.
I washed it down with a cup of Turkish coffee and listened to conversations, while looking out from the window of the restaurant’s rooftop terrace at the city below.
Viewing areas on Rainbow Street in Amman, Jordan, allow visitors to see the rest of the city, which can be beautiful at night. (J.P. Lawrence/Stars and Stripes)
Mijana, like the places I had visited, had English-speaking servers who seemed very familiar with Americans. Getting to and from Rainbow Street was a breeze. Uber is available and every taxi driver knows of the street’s reputation.
Rainbow Street is also close to other landmarks in Amman, such as the historic downtown of al-Balad and the remains of a Roman theater.
The colorful decorations on Rainbow Street often contrast with the rest of Amman, which can look quite monotone. (J.P. Lawrence/Stars and Stripes)
Despite being more expensive and touristy than other places in Amman, the area manages to retain its charm.
It’s a fine place for a two-hour jaunt to pose for Instagram photos, but it’s also great just as a hangout for soaking in the atmosphere, which Rainbow Street has in spades.
On the QT
Location: Rainbow Street is in Jebel district, close to downtown, running east from First Circle to Mango Street.
Hours: All day. Nighttime is when a lot of the street comes alive, especially during Ramadan.
Cost: Free. Cafes and restaurants are more expensive than elsewhere in Amman.
