The Hoegne River transforms from a slow-flowing stream to a rushing torrent in the stretch covered by the Promenade de La Hoegne in Jalhay, Belgium. Hikers on the route see small waterfalls, rapids and distinctive globs of foam as well as lush forest scenery. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
Within an hour’s drive of Spangdahlem Air Base are two awe-inspiring hiking trails, each boasting the added attraction of being near a charming city begging to be explored.
The farther of the two, an hour away, is Belgium’s Promenade de La Hoegne, whose name refers to the river alongside which it rambles. Speaking of water, the path is a short distance from Spa, the Belgian city whose name is synonymous with hydrotherapy.
Fall foliage surrounds the sandstone formations of the Gorge du Loup in Echternach, Luxembourg, on Nov. 4, 2023. The natural wonder is right on the doorstep of Echternach, which was founded in 698 and is Luxembourg's oldest town. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
A 40-minute drive south leads to the stony splendor of Luxembourg’s Gorge du Loup and neighboring Echternach, which was founded in 698, making it the country’s oldest town.
I sought to time my trips so I would be hiking at the peak of the surrounding foliage’s fall coloration. The weather, however, was less than cooperative, to put it charitably. But that’s the tradeoff in these parts, and I encountered a surprising amount of company.
The Hoegne River runs through Belgium’s High Fens, an area characterized by bogs and heavy precipitation. It abruptly picks up speed in the vicinity of the Centennial Bridge near Jalhay. The Promenade de la Hoegne, bursting with fall color on Oct. 28, 2023, takes hikers along this fast-flowing stretch of the river. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
Promenade de La Hoegne
Signage bills the Hoegne valley as “wild and picturesque” and “one of the most beautiful in Belgium.” This treasure of Wallonia definitely was as advertised.
The river looked like a roiling torrent of Guinness, complete with suds and foam, as it hurtled down its rocky channel and formed eddies near the edges.
Halfway into the hike, I paused to read information explaining that the froth is produced as organic matter decomposes, creating compounds that reduce the water’s surface tension.
The Belleheid Bridge trailhead for the Promenade de la Hoegne in Jalhay, Belgium, as seen Oct. 28, 2023. For about 2 miles between the Belleheid Bridge and the Centennial Bridge, the trail courses through the scenic Hoegne River valley. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
Two small waterfalls — one named after Queen Marie Henriette and the other after her husband, King Leopold II — are among the highlights on this stretch of the Hoegne.
From the trailhead at the Belleheid Bridge, where the river flows unimpeded over the road leading into the parking lot, the Promenade takes visitors on a hike of about 6 miles round trip.
The trail consists of walking paths and a series of bridges, meaning hikers alternate riverbanks throughout the journey. The estimated completion time is three hours.
Traffic is light Oct. 28, 2023, around the Pouhon Pierre le Grand in Spa, Belgium. The name of the building, which now also houses a visitor information center, refers to a mineral springs there made famous by Russian Tsar Peter the Great during a 1717 visit. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
The spires of the Cathedral of Notre Dame and Saint Remacle peek out from behind the roof of the expansive casino in Spa, Belgium, on Oct. 28, 2023, (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
By the time I made it back to my car, Spa was sounding especially inviting, and not just for its famed waters. As an architecture buff, I was there for the free pleasure of sightseeing in a sea of exquisite buildings.
A brew pub now occupies the Pavillon des Petits Jeux, a Belle Epoque building in Spa, Belgium. It is on the grounds of Parc de 7 Heures, or 7 o'clock Park, so named because doctors used to tell treatment seekers in Spa to take therapeutic evening walks there. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
The stroll along the main drag, Avenue Reine Astrid, took me past the striking facade of the Pavillon des Petits Jeux, the Spa casino and the Pouhon Pierre le Grand, which envelops an iron-rich springs named in honor of a 1717 visit by Russia’s Peter the Great.
Later I learned that the funicular railway I had stopped to gaze at whisks people up to the new hilltop bath complex, the Thermes de Spa. Maybe next trip I’ll reserve some time there for a relaxing soak.
Passengers ride the funicular railway in Spa, Belgium, on Oct. 28, 2023. At the top of the hill is the health resort city’s modern bath complex, the Thermes de Spa. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
For fans of quirky museums, the Musee de la Lessive, or Laundry Museum, with its exhibitions about the work of washerwomen and the evolution of clothes laundering, fits the bill.
Among the highlights of Luxembourg's E1 and E4 trails is the forested canyon known in French as the Gorge du Loup. Near this section of the trail is a rocky spire whose similarity to the obelisks of ancient Egypt earned it the name Cleopatra's Needle. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
Gorge du Loup
Meaning “wolf’s gorge” in French, the Gorge du Loup is an area of sheer sandstone cliffs and other rock formations shrouded in forest on the doorstep of Echternach. Visitors will also see its Luxembourgish name, Wollefsschlucht, on signs in the vicinity.
I left the car in a parking area near the Grand Hotel and set out for a strenuous uphill climb. It’s advisable to make a pit stop at Camping Officiel Wollefsschlucht, near the E1 trail marker pointing into the forest, because that’s the only bathroom I came across along the way.
Circular indentations in the walls and roof of Huel Lee cave near Berdorf, Luxembourg, attest to its past as a source of millstones. The cave is one of numerous scenic stops on Luxembourg's E1 trail, an 8.4-mile loop between Berdorf and Echternach. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
The Gorge du Loup can be accessed from either the 6.8-mile-long E4 trail or the 8.4-mile-long E1, which also features a fascinating cave called Huel Lee near the town of Berdorf.
Once in the canyon, I was awed by the scenery and majesty. In some places, standing beside the high rock faces felt a little like being in a cathedral. No wonder this region of Luxembourg is known as Little Switzerland.
The Gorge du Loup, or Wollefsschlucht as it is called in Luxembourgish, features vigorous walks, towering sandstone walls and a thick forest canopy. In good weather, it affords spectacular views of Echternach, the hub of the Little Switzerland region of Luxembourg. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
Also, the sandstone spire dubbed Cleopatra’s Needle for its resemblance to an Egyptian obelisk is quite the spectacle.
Local legend holds that the gorge is guarded by a count who lusted for money and hid riches in the area’s caves, but was turned into a wolf as punishment for his avarice.
It’s also said that anyone who places a rosary in the right cave will restore the count to human form and be rewarded with the treasure.
Place du Marche, or Market Square, is another showpiece of Echternach, the oldest town in Luxembourg. The stately Town Hall is surrounded by restaurants and shops. The E1 and E4 loop trails lead from the square to the Gorge du Loup and points beyond. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
The Basilica of St. Willibrord is part of the abbey complex around which the town of Echternach, Luxembourg, was created. The abbey museum introduces visitors to the beautiful manuscripts produced in the scriptorium during medieval times. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
A rosary might also be handy for those who step inside the basilica at Echternach Abbey, around which the town grew up. The church can be the starting point or the end point of the hike, depending on which direction one wants to traverse the trail.
After spending about 15 minutes touring the basilica, I wandered around the Place du Marche, a lovely nearby square dominated by the gabled Town Hall. The mix of vibrant modernity and storied past of Echternach was exhilarating, even in the rain.
On the QT
Address: Promenade de La Hoegne, Roquez 49, Jalhay, Belgium; Gorge du Loup, 27 Route de Diekirch, Echternach, Luxembourg
Hours: Hiking trails available 24 hours a day year-round. Thermes de Spa open Saturday and Monday through Thursday, 9 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday, 9 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sunday, 9 a.m.-8 p.m.; holiday hours Dec. 24-25, Dec. 31 and Jan. 1.
Cost: Parking is free at the Belleheid Bridge lot (high-clearance vehicles recommended) and on the surrounding street. Limited free parking is available outside the train station in Spa and at the Trooskneppchen lot or near the Grand Hotel in Echternach. At the Thermes de Spa, discounted admission of 26 euros is offered after 5:30 p.m. on weekdays and nonholidays. Otherwise, 41 euros for the full day, 30 euros for three hours, 25 euros for students age 15 and up for three hours.
Information: www.tourismejalhaysart.be/en/promenade/promenade-55-la-hoegne/; www.visitluxembourg.com/destinations/mullerthal; www.thermesdespa.com/home/; https://visitwallonia.com/en-gb/produit/attractions/activites/musea/discoveries/musee-de-la-lessive-laundry-museum-in-spa/9258
