Al Platano's Pinsa Speciale, foreground, features tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, pepperoni, salami, ham and mushrooms. The Pinsa Papa is topped with mozzarella and gorgonzola cheese, pepperoni and black olives. (Matt Wagner/Stars and Stripes)

I did a double take at the sight of one of the menu items at Al Platano, an eatery across from the former train station in Kirchheimbolanden, Germany. Pinsa? Do you mean pizza?

No, it was indeed pinsa, which originated in Rome and differs from pizza mainly in the dough.

The pinsa uses wheat, rice and soy flour. The dough is leavened for up to 72 hours, making it lighter and more digestible.

While some version of flatbread has existed for centuries, pinsa was coined in 2001 by Italian entrepreneur Corrado Di Marco. It derives its name from the Latin word “pinsere,” meaning “to press” or “to crush.”

As someone whose favorite part of a pizza is the crust, I didn’t need the menu’s closing invitation to try one.

On a Friday evening in early July, I met a colleague at Al Platano, about 25 miles from Kaiserslautern. We sat outside under the plane trees for which the restaurant is named rather than in the dining room, which had ample space.

Among the seating options at Al Platano in Kirchheimbolanden, Germany, is an outdoor patio where guests can sit underneath the plane trees that give the restaurant its name. (Matt Wagner/Stars and Stripes)

Al Platano has mostly Italian fare as well as a few German favorites such as schnitzel. Yet we came laser-focused on the pinsas as appetizers and a pair of pasta dishes for the main course.

My colleague selected the Pinsa Papa, topped with mozzarella and gorgonzola cheese, pepperoni and olives. I went with the Pinsa Speciale, topped with mozzarella, fresh mushrooms, salami, pepperoni and ham.

When the pies were placed in front of us, my first thought was that they were just oval-shaped pizzas.

But the first bite let me know the menu’s description was right. The airy dough avoided becoming soggy from the toppings, especially with mine.

The meats also were a delight. My colleague said the pepperoni had some kick to it, while I inhaled the mixture of pepperoni, salami and ham.

Unfortunately, the pinsas had two negatives, the first of which was flavorless vegetable toppings. My colleague and I had each other taste the olives and mushrooms to make sure we weren’t imagining it.

The other issue probably is a deal-breaker for most folks: the sauce. It was as though the tomato base — be it paste, sauce or fresh tomatoes — had been placed on the dough without any herbs or spices. I found it rather bland.

Al Platano in Kirchheimbolanden, Germany, offers tortelli filled with ricotta and spinach and covered in a gorgonzola cream sauce. The dish also comes with walnuts and pear slices. (Matt Wagner/Stars and Stripes)

The pappardelle al pepe at Al Platano in Kirchheimbolanden, Germany, consists of homemade noodles, steak strips and a cognac-pepper sauce. (Matt Wagner/Stars and Stripes)

With the mixed bag of the pinsas behind us, we tackled the main noodle dishes. These meals left little doubt about their quality right from the get-go.

My colleague ordered the pappardelle al pepe, or noodles with steak strips in a cognac-pepper cream sauce. Her reaction of pure satisfaction said everything, and she immediately gave me some to try.

Within seconds, I understood why. The steak was juicy and well-seasoned and paired perfectly with the pasta and the sauce. I could tell the restaurant makes its own noodles, which were chewy and held the sauce well.

I was slightly jealous of her choice until I started on my tortelli, a pasta stuffed with ricotta and spinach in a gorgonzola cream sauce with pear slices and walnuts.

The combination of the ingredients was divine. The restaurant didn’t skimp on the tortelli stuffing, and the sauce was extremely rich and creamy. Along with some nutty flavor, the walnuts’ crunchy texture was a nice addition to the dish.

And surprisingly, the sweetness of the pear blended well with everything.

Al Platano is an Italian-German restaurant in Kirchheimbolanden, Germany. It is across from the city's former train station. (Matt Wagner/Stars and Stripes)

This half of the indoor dining space at Al Platano in Kirchheimbolanden, Germany, can hold more than 20 people. Reservations are suggested, although the restaurant does accept walk-ins. (Matt Wagner/Stars and Stripes)

Overall, Al Platano felt like a neighborhood hangout with a relaxing atmosphere. By the end of the evening, the cook and the staff came out to talk to customers, some of whom seemed like regulars. It made you feel like you were at home.

While the pinsas brought us there, the noodle dishes are the reason to return. With a few tweaks to the pinsa sauce, Al Platano could give pizza places a run for their money.

wagner.mathew@stripes.com @MWagsStripes

Al Platano

Address: Bahnhofstrasse 6, Kirchheimbolanden, Germany

Hours: Sunday through Tuesday and Thursday through Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-10 p.m.; Saturday, 5:30-10 p.m.

Prices: Appetizers range from 7 to 13.90 euros; pinsas start at 7.50 euros and go up to 17.50 euros; main dishes range from 10.50 euros to 27.50 euros.

Information: +49 63527195646, Online: al-platano.de