Oskar Das Wirtshaus am Markt, translating to The Inn at the Marketplace, is nestled in a building in Bayreuth, Germany, whose history dates back over 600 years. It twice served as city hall, with the first stint lasting nearly a century. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
I tend to be a creature of habit, especially when it comes to food.
Once I find a restaurant I like, I rarely stray, a fact not lost on my German friends, who are quick to tease me about my limited experience with local cuisine.
After a year in Bavaria, I decided to expand my culinary horizons, so I turned to a chef friend who is a lifelong resident of Grafenwoehr for her expert recommendations.
She joined me on a 30-minute journey to Bayreuth, home to Oskar Das Wirtshaus am Markt. When I approached, the patio was buzzing with diners enjoying a summer evening overlooking the lively market square.
According to the restaurant’s website, the building is steeped in over 600 years’ worth of history. It was Bayreuth’s city hall from 1721 to 1917 and then again for a spell after World War II. Later, it served as a police station.
Since 1999, it has housed a restaurant with rustic interiors featuring skylights, regional art and warm, earthy decor.
One of the first things I noticed upon walking in was the bar, a striking centerpiece that reached all the way to the ceiling. Although fully open to the dining area, it had a sleek, modern-speakeasy feel that I couldn’t help but admire.
Massive copper-colored vessels behind the bar held the restaurant’s own Bayreuther Brauhaus beer, adding to its allure.
The restaurant was quite busy, though we were able to get seated as a party of two without a reservation. Nevertheless, booking a table in advance on the restaurant’s website is highly encouraged.
Copper brewing vats at Oskar in Bayreuth, Germany, display the name Bayreuther Brauhaus, a local beer served at the restaurant. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
Oskar Das Wirtshaus am Markt in Bayreuth, Germany, has an earthy and rustic charm throughout the interior of its historic building. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
The grand interior of Oskar Das Wirtshaus am Markt in Bayreuth, Germany, features a large skylight and upstairs seating, blending an upscale ambience with the cozy charm of a traditional Franconian restaurant. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
We opted to share an appetizer, the brezenpanade panierte weisswurst, which featured fried white breakfast sausage accompanied by a sweet mustard, pretzel croutons and a small salad, resulting in a flavorful start to our meal.
Though the appetizer was delicious and tempting enough to reorder, I came to Oskar with the goal of stepping into traditional Bavarian cuisine. When it came time to choose a main course, the biersteak immediately stood out.
From my limited understanding of the dish, I wasn’t expecting a pork schnitzel piled high with mushrooms, onions, bacon and a fried egg, but the hearty toppings pulled everything together.
My friend ordered a Franconian classic, the Frankischer sauerbraten, which is a beef sour roast served with a creamy gingerbread gravy, red cabbage and a large potato dumpling.
We decided to share, allowing me to relish the outstanding dumpling and the gravy, which made a fabulous pairing with the roast.
The brezenpanade panierte weisswurst is Oskar's take on a classic Bavarian breakfast item, pairing breaded white sausage with sweet mustard and salty, crunchy pretzel croutons. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
The biersteak at Oskar Das Wirtshaus am Markt in Bayreuth, Germany, offers a flavorful twist on the classic and is topped with mushrooms, bacon, onions and a fried egg. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
The Frankischer sauerbraten, or beef sour roast, at Oskar in Bayreuth, Germany, is a classic Franconian dish served with a delicious gingerbread gravy sauce accompanied by a large potato dumpling and red cabbage. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
The wheat beer tiramisu at Oskar Das Wirkshaus am Markt differs from what is typical for this Italian dessert, and the flavor is an acquired taste. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
My friend said I may have committed a minor culinary crime by borrowing some of the gingerbread gravy for my beer steak, but I have no regrets, as both entrees were excellent.
I was thrilled to see my latest dessert obsession, tiramisu, on the menu but with an Oskar twist: a base infused with wheat beer. Unfortunately, despite my excitement, the “beer-amisu” didn’t quite live up to expectations.
Instead of the soft, creamy mascarpone I’d anticipated, this version had a gelatinous consistency and tasted more like a wheaty cheesecake, which neither of us enjoyed. It may simply be an acquired taste, but it wasn’t the finish to the meal I had hoped for.
However, not all was lost. We had ordered a backup, the süsse knödel: strawberry curd dumplings served with a tangy rhubarb sorbet. A seasonal offering available from May to July, it helped to redeem the experience.
Visiting Oskar with an open mind and an appetite for something traditional is the best way to appreciate its wide range of northern Bavarian classics, maybe even have a new culinary adventure.
Oskar in Bayreuth, Germany, offers an extensive Franconian-style menu featuring seasonal specials, vegetarian and vegan options and a wide selection of classic Bavarian dishes. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
The eye-catching bar at Oskar Das Wirtshaus am Markt captures the essence of the restaurant’s aesthetic, blending modern speakeasy vibes with its rustic, historic charm. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
The patio of Oskar Das Wirtshaus am Markt in the market square of Bayreuth, Germany, is lively on summer evenings. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
Address: Maximilianstrasse 33, Bayreuth, Germany
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 8 a.m.-midnight; Sunday, 9 a.m.-midnight
Cost: Appetizers, 6-10 euros; main courses, 10-20 euros; dessert, 7-9 euros
Information: +49 921 5160553; www.oskar-bayreuth.de
