The pulled pork cochinita pibil at El Pacifico in Frankfurt is served in a pot separate from the other ingredients. That presentation calls to mind the traditional way of cooking this Yucatan Peninsula dish, whose name is a hybrid of Spanish and Mayan meaning "little pig in a pit." (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
Two childhood occurrences still stand out to this day as touchstones in my experience of the food and culture of Mexico, a country that was spiritually dear to my devoutly Catholic family.
The first, which determined my restaurant choice for this review, was ordering pollo en mole at Casa de Oro in my hometown of Spokane, Wash.
I was served a chicken breast slathered in a sauce combining mashed peanuts, chocolate and spices, and I was so enamored of this medley that mole became the first thing I looked for on every Mexican restaurant menu thereafter.
The second was a day trip from San Diego across the border to Tijuana with my Mexican-American godmother, during which she bought me a royal blue sombrero that all but called my name. The prized gift hung on my bedroom wall for years.
That’s the backstory behind two recent dinner visits to El Pacifico, a Mexican restaurant in Frankfurt near the city’s zoo.
I decided to sit indoors by a wall entirely covered by a veritable rainbow of sombreros. None of them matched the color of my old one, yet the nostalgia was undeniable.
Although the lists of regular and summer cocktails had some tempting selections, alcohol was a risk I didn’t want to take after a long drive from Kaiserslautern. I went with horchata and saved it until the waitress brought my meal.
Chicken in mole is one of two dishes in the "best deals" section of El Pacifico's menu that are made with mole poblano. The dark, rich sauce is claimed by the Mexican states of Oaxaca and Puebla. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
Coconut flan is the sole gluten-free dessert on the menu at El Pacifico, a Mexican restaurant in Frankfurt, Germany. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
The first thing I noticed about the entree was its unusual presentation. Atop two chicken breasts was a pile of greens mixed with onions and pickled radish shavings.
Nevertheless, the ensemble looked appetizing, particularly because of the dark, rich mole poblano sprinkled with sesame seeds. I dug in and tasted a pleasant spiciness almost right off the bat.
At El Pacifico Mexican restaurant in Frankfurt, Germany, the rice accompanying the chicken in mole is served in a separate cup. Corn and peas are added to white rice. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
Agua de Jamaica, a fruity nonalcoholic drink, is one of the beverages native to Mexico on the menu at El Pacifico Mexican restaurant in Frankfurt, Germany. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
It wasn’t the best mole I’ve ever had, but it wasn’t the worst, either, which is saying something given Germany’s reputation for less than authentic Mexican food. I enjoyed it enough to clean my plate, refried beans included. On a scale, it would be a 6.5 out of 10.
Three other factors went into my consideration. The food arrived lukewarm, and the price of 24.50 euros seemed steep. Also, no corn tortillas were provided to sop up the remaining sauce, though in fairness there wasn’t much.
I ended dinner with coconut flan for dessert and another horchata. They made for a scrumptious combo that left me feeling sated and satisfied.
A week later, I returned to El Pacifico with a work colleague for a joint assessment.
El Pacifico's nachos use homemade tortilla chips, which are covered in a bean puree mixed with sour cream and topped with sliced tomatoes and jalapenos. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
Mexican painter Frida Kahlo is depicted in a portrait on one of the interior walls at El Pacifico in Frankfurt, Germany. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
We shared a plate of nachos as a starter. I liked the texture and crunch of the homemade chips, which were bathed in a bean puree mixed with sour cream.
My colleague thought something was lacking until he spiced up his portion with jalapenos.
Both of us chose an order of four tacos as our main dish; his was the al pastor and mine the pulled pork cochinita pibil.
The tacos he got were mostly prepared, whereas my plate looked like something delivered by Ikea: a paper sleeve containing corn tortillas, three cups of assorted sauces, a lime and separate groupings of pickled radish, cilantro and onions.
I was befuddled until I opened the accompanying small pot and saw the marinated meat, with a bright orange color imparted by annatto.
It turns out that the “pibil” in the name of this Yucatan Peninsula dish is from the Mayan for “buried,” a reference to the traditional method of slow-roasting the pork underground.
The al pastor tacos at El Pacifico in Frankfurt, Germany. They are served with three sauces: guacamole, pico de gallo and taquera. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
Among the Mexican beverages on the menu at El Pacifico in Frankfurt is horchata, a powdered rice milk concoction, here shown with a sprinkling of cinnamon to temper the sweetness. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
My colleague and I agreed that our favorite among the condiment trio was the creamy, light green taquera sauce, made from jalapenos, coriander, lemon juice and garlic.
His tacos pastor had pineapple for sweetness. When our respective ingredient combinations met the taquera sauce, the flavor blend was divine.
I want to give El Pacifico particular kudos for the beverage excellence on both visits.
The double hit of refreshment I got from the horchata the first visit helped me forget about the muggy weather that day. And the agua de Jamaica that I ordered with the tacos turned down the heat with a fantastic fruity rush.
Lastly, some parking advice for those going to El Pacifico by car: Try to get a spot in the Mousonturm garage rather than the Parkhaus Ost. The spaces in the former are much more generous, and the rate is only 1 euro per hour.
In nicer weather, the outdoor seating fills up at El Pacifico in Frankfurt, Germany. The Mexican restaurant does take reservations. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
A wall of sombreros in numerous colors greets visitors inside El Pacifico, a Mexican restaurant in Frankfurt. (David Edwards/Stars and Stripes)
El Pacifico
Address: Sandweg 79, Frankfurt
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 5 p.m.-1 a.m.; Sunday, 1 p.m.-midnight
Prices: Tequila and mezcal, 7-9 euros; horchata, agua de Jamaica and similar drinks, 6-7.20 euros; tacos, 17-19.80 euros.
Information: Online: el-pacifico-ffm.de, Phone: +49 69446988; reservations, www.quandoo.de/en/place/el-pacifico-11338
