Bacaro della Pizza in Vicenza, Italy, serves pizza "al taglio," or by the slice, making it a rarity in town. (Rebecca Holland/Stars and Stripes)

It’s hard to complain about the food in Vicenza, home to Michelin-starred restaurants, amazing trattorias, Naples-style pizza spots and even decent sushi.

But until recently, something was missing: Roman-style takeaway pizza.

It may sound like a niche craving, but sometimes you don’t want a whole pie — just a square slice (or three), cut in front of you, to enjoy on the go or with a small glass of wine and good conversation.

Pizza al taglio, or pizza by the slice, is a street food staple in the capital and ubiquitous throughout much of Italy. Yet in Vicenza, options were scarce. Only a couple of places outside the city center offered this style, and honestly, they’re mediocre.

That changed with the opening of Bacaro della Pizza, the latest venture from the team behind Fattore F, the science-meets-art pizza restaurant next door known for its tasting menu.

“Bacaro della Pizza was born to create a new idea of aperitif and more, combining the tradition of the Venetian Bacaro and the mastery in white art of Fattore F,” the menu states.

A bacaro is a small, casual Venetian tavern serving glasses of wine and snacks. This bacaro offers pizza slices, charcuterie, a couple of craft beers on tap, a local wine list, spritzes and coffee.

Spritzes, house wine, beer and selections from a small specialty wine list can be added to orders at Bacaro della Pizza in Vicenza, Italy. (Rebecca Holland/Stars and Stripes)

Bacaro della Pizza in Vicenza, Italy, serves appetizers and takeaway-style pizza. The concept for the restaurant came from the brains behind Fattore F next door. (Rebecca Holland/Stars and Stripes)

The menu features toketin, a sourdough pizza stuffed with seasonal Venetian ingredients like cod or asparagus.

Pizza in pala, made with highly hydrated dough for an airy, honeycomb texture, comes as a classic Margherita or with seasonal toppings.

But the star is the Romana, a sourdough and semi-whole wheat pizza cut to order. Toppings change frequently, but a recent favorite featured sweet onions, peppers and spicy sausage.

The first time I stopped in, I was transported back to my years living in Rome, eating this kind of pizza almost every day. Pure joy.

Bacaro della Pizza is one of the few pizza spots in Vicenza open for both lunch and aperitivo, ideal for families and anyone looking for an earlier meal. It’s also a worthy takeout option, since this style of pizza is less prone to the soggy middle of a Naples-style pizza left to sit for too long.

The restaurant is compact, but turnover is quick as patrons devour their slices. Whatever Bacaro della Pizza lacks in seating, it more than makes up for in taste.

Bacaro della Pizza sits on a quiet corner in Vicenza, Italy. It has limited indoor seating and a small patio. (Rebecca Holland/Stars and Stripes)

Bacaro della Pizza

Address: Contrà Jacopo cà Bianca 22 Vicenza, Italy

Hours: Monday and Wednesday-Saturday: 12 p.m. to midnight; Sunday: 12 p.m.-3 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.-midnight; closed Tuesdays

Information: Phone: 04441235141; Online: bacarodellapizza.com