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The Adjarian khachapuri at Kinto is one variation of Georgia's national dish. The leavened bread dough is formed into a boat, filled with cheese and butter, and topped with an egg yolk, which cooks when mixed with the cheese.

The Adjarian khachapuri at Kinto is one variation of Georgia's national dish. The leavened bread dough is formed into a boat, filled with cheese and butter, and topped with an egg yolk, which cooks when mixed with the cheese. (Bradley Latham/Stars and Stripes)

My Army career has taken me to my fair share of unforgettable places, one of which was the Caucasus. Specifically, Georgia, a country I wouldn’t have thought to put on my bucket list and only happened upon thanks to a work trip.

The week I spent in 2016 in Tbilisi, the capital, brought a handful of oddities such as the world’s largest Wendy’s and a bowling alley paying homage to cinematic cult classic “The Big Lebowski.”

But the biggest standout was the food — not at the Wendy’s, mind you — which left such an impression that during Christmas travels in Germany with my family last year, I was struck with a craving for Georgian cuisine that wouldn’t go away.

I was therefore ecstatic to see that Wiesbaden has a place called Kinto that could quell that longing. Although it was closed for renovation by the time I returned in January, it reopened at the end of March.

I was thrilled at the prospect of digging into some khachapuri, a cheese-filled bread that’s also the country’s national dish, and khinkali, a soup dumpling that’s also a cornerstone of Georgian cuisine.  

The khinkali at Kinto Georgian Restaurant in Wiesbaden, Germany, are filled with a delicious broth along with ground lamb, onions and spices. The dumplings are traditionally topped with cracked black pepper and eaten by hand.

The khinkali at Kinto Georgian Restaurant in Wiesbaden, Germany, are filled with a delicious broth along with ground lamb, onions and spices. The dumplings are traditionally topped with cracked black pepper and eaten by hand. (Bradley Latham/Stars and Stripes)

Kinto is easy to miss, tucked away in an industrial corner of Wiesbaden-Nordenstadt, but it’s worth seeking out.

It has two glass-enclosed indoor seating areas and an open-air option that provides patrons with a view of the kitchen and wood-fired grill. I went with an inside table for this meal, leaving the al fresco experience for a return visit during the warmer months.

Prepared to feast, I struggled to choose a main dish, knowing khachapuri and khinkali would certainly be a part of the evening. I eventually settled on the lamb chashushuli.  

I didn’t expect my main entree to arrive first, but everything at the restaurant is prepared fresh. In retrospect, the sequencing made sense considering that the other items I ordered are a bit more labor-intensive.  

The lamb stew was fantastic, with each tender bite of meat melting in my mouth and accompanied by the flavors of the tomato base and cilantro. The dish had a slight spice that pleasantly rounded out the flavors.  

The lamb chashushuli at Kinto restaurant in Wiesbaden, Germany, is a rich stew with a tomato base that includes onion, garlic, cilantro and Georgian spice blends.

The lamb chashushuli at Kinto restaurant in Wiesbaden, Germany, is a rich stew with a tomato base that includes onion, garlic, cilantro and Georgian spice blends. (Bradley Latham/Stars and Stripes)

Almost on cue, my next course landed on the table as I finished my last couple of bites of the stew. My khachapuri choice was the Adjarian variation, which includes a raw egg yolk dropped in the center of the bread boat filled with cheese.  

A quick stir cooked the egg, and I experienced doughy, buttery, cheesy bliss from first to last bite. My mind transported me back to the old wine cellars and hilltop restaurants of Tbilisi.  

I would have been satisfied had I ended my meal there, but I wasn’t leaving without the khinkali. The large, steaming dumplings came out in a set of five. Despite being significantly pricier than what you’d pay in Georgia, they were worth every cent.  

I covered them in a dusting of fresh cracked black pepper and dug in.

Khinkali is a finger food, and eating it requires a special technique to look like a pro. You grab the topknot of the dumpling and then, holding it upside down, bite a small hole and sip out all the broth before biting in all the way.

The broth of the Kinto khinkali was light and aromatic, and the seasoned ground lamb and onion filling induced a smile.  

I must confess I did commit a slight faux pas while enjoying my third course. In Georgia, I learned that the topknot is not eaten but rather set aside to keep track of how many of the delicious morsels you’ve downed.

I was caught up in the moment and left no such evidence behind. I don’t know if the waitstaff noticed, but if they did, they were kind enough not to say anything.

Medovik is a popular dessert found in many former Soviet countries and is one of three options on the menu at Kinto Georgian Restaurant in Wiesbaden, Germany. The layer cake gets its sweetness from honey, which is a main ingredient.

Medovik is a popular dessert found in many former Soviet countries and is one of three options on the menu at Kinto Georgian Restaurant in Wiesbaden, Germany. The layer cake gets its sweetness from honey, which is a main ingredient. (Bradley Latham/Stars and Stripes)

Pirosmani is one of five red wine offerings on the card at Kinto Georgian Restaurant in Wiesbaden, Germany. Georgia is one of the world's oldest winemaking areas.

Pirosmani is one of five red wine offerings on the card at Kinto Georgian Restaurant in Wiesbaden, Germany. Georgia is one of the world's oldest winemaking areas. (Bradley Latham/Stars and Stripes)

Georgia is also one of the world’s oldest winemaking areas, and Kinto also delivers here, serving up a variety of regional reds and whites. I had a glass of medium-dry red pirosmani, its dark ruby color and notes of spiced berries pairing well with each dish.

I limited myself to one glass of wine because I had to drive, but I’d love to return to sample more of the offerings along with a dash of chacha, a spirit native to Georgia also offered at Kinto.  

I finished the evening with a slice of medovik for dessert. It’s a layer cake that is popular in countries of the former Soviet Union and whose name is derived from the Russian word for honey.

The flavor combination of honey and walnut was lovely and not overly sweet, a perfect conclusion to a nearly perfect meal. 

Perhaps it was nostalgia, but I walked away from Kinto thinking it was one of the best dining experiences I’ve had in Wiesbaden. I will undoubtedly put it in my regular rotation of restaurant haunts.      

With a return trip to the land of Tbilisi and Batumi not on the near-term horizon for me, I’m comforted in the knowledge that a Georgian culinary escape is always available a couple of miles down the road.  

Kinto Georgian Restaurant in Wiesbaden, Germany, serves fare from the Caucasus country amid an open-air atmosphere, allowing patrons to view the kitchen and grill stations from the dining areas.

Kinto Georgian Restaurant in Wiesbaden, Germany, serves fare from the Caucasus country amid an open-air atmosphere, allowing patrons to view the kitchen and grill stations from the dining areas. (Bradley Latham/Stars and Stripes)

Kinto Georgian Restaurant in Wiesbaden, Germany, serves up traditional fare from the Caucasus country.

Kinto Georgian Restaurant in Wiesbaden, Germany, serves up traditional fare from the Caucasus country. (Bradley Latham/Stars and Stripes)

latham.bradley@stripes.com @BradLat24

Kinto Georgian Restaurant 

Address: Daimlerring 3, Wiesbaden, Germany

Hours: Wednesday-Sunday, 5-11 p.m.; closed Monday and Tuesday 

Prices: Appetizers, 11 euros; khinkali, 13 euros; entrees, 15 euros; desserts, 5.50 euros; wine, 6-8 euros per glass. Menu is German only.   

Phone: +49 176-42003006, www.kinto-restaurant.de 

author picture
Bradley is a reporter and photographer-videographer for Stars and Stripes in Wiesbaden, Germany. He has worked in military communities stateside and overseas for nearly two decades. He is a graduate of the Defense Information School and Campbell University in Buies Creek, North Carolina.

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