The spring season menu at Petiole highlighted compressed tofu, as seared scallops. The dish also has cauliflower and bean puree, served with green beans and drizzled with a soy chili dressing. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
Tucked away in the heart of Bahrain is Petiole, one of the few fully vegan restaurants in the island country.
Conceived over three years, this establishment is more than just a dining spot; it’s a sanctuary for vegan food enthusiasts. An affiliated grocery store beneath the restaurant sells goods that include natural cosmetics priced by weight, further highlighting the commitment to sustainability.
At the entrance, lush greenery, while artificial, builds on the eco-friendly ethos. Large windows spill natural light and there is a center bar with climbing vines and large glass cloches filled with desserts.
Sri Lankan chef Muhammad Sarif, with 16 years of vegan cooking experience across the Persian Gulf region, is teamed up with Bahraini executive chef Khalid Aljoaib. Their vision for a vegan-friendly Bahrain helped bring this restaurant to life.
Petiole’s dedication to veganism goes beyond its menu. The restaurant takes strict measures to prevent cross-contamination, and the staff isn’t permitted to wear leather shoes on the premises.
The commitment to zero waste is evident in everything from glass straws to fabric hand towels and nonplastic to-go bags. The holistic approach is commendable, and I appreciated not having to drink through a soggy paper straw.
Artificial greenery adorns the exterior and interior at Bahrain's Petiole, a vegan cafe. It is hard to miss in the new strip mall in Janabiyah. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
Patrons at Petiole Cafe in Bahrain are greeted by lush artificial greenery, a nod to the restaurant's eco-friendly ethos. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
Petiole also has a grocery store beneath the cafe, where patrons can find ceramics, books and healthy snacks. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
Natural cosmetics, teas and dried goods are among the items sold at the grocery below Petiole Cafe in Bahrain. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
The menu is seasonally aggressive, and I am lucky to have ordered from their spring menu. I started with a mocktail that masterfully blended rose, cardamom and citrus topped with grapefruit foam, setting a high standard with its refreshing and nuanced rose flavors.
However, the basil ginger lemonade fell short, skewing too bitter for my taste despite its promising ingredients. The food menu, though, did not disappoint.
The vegan bang bang shrimp tacos, made from tofu, defied expectations with their oceanic flavor; it was so convincing that it had me suspecting witchcraft. That word floated through my head several times during my sit-down lunch; it was that mystifyingly good.
The grilled Padron peppers and crispy mac and cheese balls served with a robust marinara sauce impressed with their flavors and textures, proving that vegan cheese can melt without a grainy aftertaste. The Padron peppers were perfectly cooked, and the flaked sea salt balanced the smokiness of the char.
Pro tip: Add the Padron peppers to the bang bang shrimp tacos for a more elevated experience. For the main course, the “scallops,” ingeniously crafted from compressed tofu, were a revelation.
Petiole Cafe's bang bang shrimp tacos, made from tofu, are tossed in a spicy vegan mayo sauce and topped with fresh purple cabbage and cilantro. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
The grilled Padron peppers with flaked sea salt were a lunchtime highlight at Petiole Cafe in Bahrain. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
The"‘scallops" on the spring menu at Petiole Cafe in Bahrain are actually compressed tofu. The dish features a cauliflower and bean puree served with green beans and drizzled with a soy chili dressing. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
Simply slicing through them, I paused. Their texture was a precursor of what was to come. Served on a bed of creamy cauliflower and bean puree, they were perfectly seared and seasoned, highlighting the chef’s ability to re-create sea flavors from plant-based sources.
The meal concluded on a high note with an array of desserts, including a maple spiced creme brulee that was a creamy cardamom-and-saffron custard with hints of cinnamon.
I was worried the saffron might be overpowering and also confused about how creme brulee could be transformed into a vegan version. It was indulgent, and the only thing absent was the burnt sugar.
I also had to try a duo of brioche-raised doughnuts, the rose pistachio and passion fruit. The heavenly sponge of carbs was worth every bite. The passion fruit flavor had a tart finish with a crunch provided by the seeds, and the rose pistachio was subtly floral with a generous dusting of pistachio crumbles.
Petiole’s brioche-raised doughnuts are delicious. The rose pistachio is highly recommended. The pistachios were generous. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
The bakery at Petiole Cafe in Bahrain boasts many options, including these brioche-raised doughnuts, which have rose pistachio and passion fruit flavoring. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
The maple spiced creme brulee, with a creamy cardamom and saffron custard, and hints of cinnamon, is a delicious dessert option at Petiole Cafe in Bahrain. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
The chamomile paloma mocktail was a refreshing finale with its blend of strawberry and fresh grapefruit. There are many mocktail options on the menu at Petiole Cafe. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
The chamomile paloma mocktail was a refreshing finale with its vibrant blend of strawberry and fresh grapefruit to wash down the doughnut dessert.
Petiole’s name refers to the part of a plant that connects a leaf to the stem, transporting water and nutrients between them. Given that the eatery aims to nourish patrons with a direct natural pathway from earth to table, the choice is fitting.
Petiole Cafe
Address: Janabiyah, District 1 Mall.
Hours: Daily, 8 a.m. to midnight
Prices: Ranging from About 10 to 16 BD ($25 to $30) for brunch, lunch and dinner. They also deliver via Talabat.
Information: Online: instagram.com/petiolecafe
