The Aubrey's signature nigiri platter, including yellowtail topped with dead ants, is reminiscent of the quality and flavors found only in Japan. (Matthew M. Burke/Stars and Stripes)
The British use the word “posh” to describe luxury or someone of high class, and it sometimes has a negative connotation.
I was in London for a soccer match, fresh from 12 years in Japan, and was looking for sushi. I wanted the best and was looking to treat myself, to test the city and to see just how posh things could get.
The Aubrey, located in the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park hotel in Knightsbridge, offers a truly memorable, albeit pricey experience. The “late night izakaya,” or pub, features the choicest cuts of fish, luxurious ingredients and sublime sake pairings. No detail is too small – like the ants.
The sushi is created in the Edomae style, using rice from the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido and red vinegar made from Ginjo sake, according to the restaurant’s website. The process enhances the umami, or savory richness, which is said to highlight the natural flavors of each fish.
Each drink at London's The Aubrey is paired with one of famed English artist Aubrey Beardsley's black ink drawings. (Matthew M. Burke/Stars and Stripes)
The restaurant is named for English illustrator Aubrey Beardsley, whose macabre black ink drawings were influenced by Japanese woodblock prints. The Aubrey’s cocktail menu has a heavy Japanese influence and the drinks are paired with Beardsley’s masterworks.
My night in London began with an internet search for “most luxurious sushi restaurant.” The Aubrey currently wears that crown, according to a Nov. 23 article in Luxury London magazine.
The decor at The Aubrey resembles the bar for assassins in the “John Wick” films. It’s low-lit, classy, modern and full of art. Shelves are crammed with books. The patrons looked like members of the wealthy elite, in suit jackets and jeans and form-fitting dresses.
I started with a spoonful of savory caviar, which arrived alongside an ice-cold shot of Japanese shochu, a rice liquor. The caviar had that familiar slippery texture followed by a salty explosion; the shochu offered a refreshing counterpoint.
The Aubrey's yellowtail sashimi, topped with spicy ponzu, shiso and a chili, offered a refreshing bite. (Matthew M. Burke/Stars and Stripes)
I followed that with yellowtail sashimi topped with spicy ponzu, shiso and chili for 18 pounds (about $23). The sashimi was crisp and fresh, while the ponzu and chili offered a peppery citrus bite to fish that seemed to melt on the palate.
For the main course, I opted for the chef’s signature nigiri platter for 58 pounds (about $73). It came with pieces of salmon, yellowtail, salmon caviar called ikura, shrimp topped with black caviar, and a sweet and airy, whipped Japanese egg, to be eaten in a particular order. The fish was succulent, pressed to the perfect temperature, and I ate it without soy sauce.
The yellowtail was the showstopper, topped with dead ants sourced from a U.S. farm, which offer a bit of crunch as well as citrus notes, the waiter explained.
The crunch was something new for me but was welcome, like sesame seeds on a hamburger bun or an everything bagel. The fish did have some citrus notes, but I couldn’t tell if that was from the ants or the vinegar in the rice.
The Black Cat closely resembles an old fashioned, made with Laphroaig whisky, Japanese rum, plum wine and Okinawa sugar. (Matthew M. Burke/Stars and Stripes)
For drinks, I had a carafe of Tsuchida Kimoto Junmai Ginjo nihonshu, or sake, for $80. The Aubrey has an extensive sake list that wouldn’t look out of place in Tokyo.
After my meal, I went two legs of a Beardsley-inspired cocktail journey, a Peacock Room and a Black Cat for $24 and $29, respectively. The Black Cat was a twist on an old fashioned, with Laphroaig whisky, Japanese rum, plum wine and Okinawa sugar. It had sweet plum notes and a smoky finish.
I was stuffed but was told the Mt. Fuji dessert was a sight to see, so I ordered that as well.
The Aubrey’s signature dessert, the Mt. Fuji, had an amazing presentation but too many ingredients. (Matthew M. Burke/Stars and Stripes)
It was the size of a small basketball when it arrived. It included elderflower mousse, aerated white chocolate, rice crisps, meringue, candy floss and milk ice cream lost in a cloud of cotton candy to resemble Mt. Fuji’s fog.
The waiter poured poached peach over the cotton candy to resemble the rain, and the fog began to clear. Then he added a torch flame to symbolize the sun.
The Fuji concept was neat, but was too confused for my liking. It seemed like they just threw everything they could find into it, in my humble, working-class opinion.
The Aubrey is an amazing sushi experience, if you can live with the price tag. It reminded me of the quality and attention to detail found only in my former home.
It’s good to be posh sometimes.
The Aubrey in London's exclusive Knightsbridge district, seen here on March 16, 2024, offers a truly memorable, albeit pricey, gastronomic experience. (Matthew M. Burke/Stars and Stripes)
The Aubrey
Address: 66 Knightsbridge, London
Hours: Open for dinner daily, 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Monday through Wednesday, and 6 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Thursday through Sunday.
Prices: Expensive, starting at 6 pounds, around $7.50, for two pieces of sea bream sashimi. Running as high as 290 pounds, $360, for 100 grams of their signature caviar, Amur River sturgeon eggs.
Information: Reservations are recommended and can be booked online. Phone: +44 (0)20 7201 3899; Online: theaubreycollection.com/london
