Asparagus season dishes at Bauerle, a farm restaurant in the town of Fellbach, come with a heaping serving of 500 grams of stalks. You can choose between green or white asparagus and toppings of hollandaise sauce, melted butter or a vinaigrette. (John Vandiver/Stars and Stripes)
It was early March and the eye-catching asparagus was already on prominent display at my local grocery store, which was a surprise to me and an elderly lady standing nearby.
“Früh,” it’s early, she said in an excited pitch that quickly turned to disappointment.
She walked off empty-handed after closer inspection revealed the bright green stalks were from Spain rather than Germany. Indeed, “Spargelzeit,” the much-anticipated time of year when the asparagus starts to sprout, only really counts when it’s grown locally.
With the lady’s disappointment still fresh in my mind, I decided to seize the spargel moment now that the season is in gear. Bauerle, a farm restaurant in the town of Fellbach that’s held in high regard for the quality of its stalks, has been on my list of places to visit for years.
From late March until June 23, the farm restaurant Bauerle in the town of Fellbach serves a menu with a focus on asparagus that is grown on site. (John Vandiver/Stars and Stripes)
The restaurant is classic farm to table, with the asparagus grown on site along with a wide range of other produce. When they launched their annual asparagus menu on March 26, my family made a reservation just a few days later.
The eatery was packed when we arrived. Reservations are a must. As we sat down, we were brought a small serving of asparagus broth to get our palates warmed up.
The asparagus menu, which lasts until June 23, includes many dishes with white and green stalks served in different ways. Typical options include 500 grams (about a pound) of asparagus served in hollandaise sauce, melted butter or a vinaigrette. I ordered the green served with a side of smoked salmon. Another in our party opted for the white asparagus with hollandaise and a crispy schnitzel.
There are a variety of entrees to choose from to eat alongside the asparagus at Bauerle, a farm restaurant in Fellbach. The smoked salmon with green asparagus in a vinaigrette was especially fresh. (John Vandiver/Stars and Stripes)
Bauerle, a farm restaurant in Fellbach, grows its own produce. The establishment also has a winery. This is a glass of Trollinger mixed with Lemberger, a popular blend in the greater Stuttgart area. (John Vandiver/Stars and Stripes)
Several meals offering asparagus with crepes or meat offerings were in the 20 euro range. The focus, though, was the asparagus, which is iconic in Germany, Europe’s top producer. The white and green asparagus all were cooked to perfection, firm and not the least bit soggy. And the flavor beats any import likely to be found at the local commissary.
Unlike in the United States, where it seems like asparagus is available year round and not particularly popular, it’s mostly a seasonal affair in Germany. That tendency to eat in season adds to the experience of Bauerle, which has an appealing modern atmosphere indoors that contrasts with the farm setting.
After asparagus season, the farm’s restaurant turns to a beef-oriented menu in August and a goose-focused one in the fall. Meanwhile, the produce is for sale all year round, except for January.
A couple days after our successful dinner, I made a return trip for a little more Spargelzeit — this time at the produce stand for takeout.
Bauerle
Location: Height 1, Fellbach
Hours: Tuesday- Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and Sun. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Information: Make a reservation at 0711-534-128. Online: bauerle-fellbach.de
