A man relaxes under a jet of water spraying from the ceiling into a pool at the Seolbong Onchon Tourist Hotel. (Greg L. Davis / S&S)
The Korean countryside outside Seoul is dotted with lighted signs that look like steaming pots of soup.
Follow these signs, however, and you’ll find not a meal but public baths utilizing Korean hot springs.
Dozens of nude people hopping in and out of public tubs can make some Americans uncomfortable. But the power of a soothing bath and bubbling sauna to steam away pain and trouble make a hot springs trip worthwhile, even for the shy.
The medicinal power of a natural hot bath is said to rejuvenate the skin, the mind and the soul. At the very least, you’ll leave clean and relaxed.
Hot springs range from small hotels with tubs in their basements to massive water parks. Costs vary from 3,000 won ($2.50) to 16,000 won ($13.30).
About 90 minutes southeast of Seoul, the waters under the city of Ichon have been popular since the early 1900s. They’re said to cure skin and eye diseases.
The medical claims come from a South Korean folk tale involving a farmer whose mother had eye problems. A monk told the farmer the hot-springs water would cure her. The folk tale holds that she was cured, sealing the steamy groundwater’s reputation.
The hot springs also slow aging processes — at least according to their promotional material.
Certain etiquette must be followed, lest you disturb other bathers.
The hot springs have locker rooms. If you haven’t noticed by the that time, get naked! Don’t worry. No one cares if you’re nude, although it may bring back memories of high school gym class.
Head for the showers. You must be clean before sitting in the hot springs: They are for soaking, not cleaning. Soap and shampoo usually are provided free and vending machines offer inexpensive razors. The showers normally have a mirror and a small stool next to a shower hose.
After showering thoroughly, head for the baths. Most hot springs generally have a cold pool, a medium temperature pool and a hot one. Ease yourself in slowly. Splashing and noise are not recommended. Nor is the shock you’d then experience from the almost scalding water.
Some pools may have jets for water massage — and don’t be surprised if one of the pools is green. In Asia, green tea, also believed to have health benefits, is the daytime beverage of choice. Many people enjoy bathing in it, too. Bobbing in the pool will be an enormous green tea bag brewing hundreds of gallons of bathe-able tea.
Most hot springs also have saunas. Ichon’s Seolbong Tourist Hotel features an alvan sauna, named for the type of rock used. The rock’s mineral content is considered good for oxygen flow and healing wounds.
Saunas also are composed of pine wood, or rocks such as jade. Be careful when going into a sauna, however: It can be incredibly hot. If you feel the heat is too much, get out.
Many facilities offer massages and special skin cleansing. An ajumma — the term for an older Korean woman — will massage you and scrub the dead skin cells from your body with a special, slightly rough towel.
The best areas near Seoul for hot springs baths are Asan and Ichon.
To get to Asan, take Highway 1 toward Pusan and drive for about two hours. Take the exit for Road 628 and continue west a few miles.
To reach Ichon, take Olympic Expressway east and get on the Chungbu Expressway. After about 40 minutes, take the exit for Inchon. Drive straight into town for four miles, when you should see a sign for the hot spring area.
Hot spring areas are marked with brown signs. They don’t point to any specific hot spring, just the general area. Then, look for the steaming soup bowl.
Joanne V. Moon contributed to this report.
Where to test the waters in Korea ...
Onyang Onchon, Onyang Tourist Hotel:
Directions: By train: Take Changhangsun and go to Onyangonchon.
By bus: Get off at Asan terminal from Seoul Kangnam terminal.
By car: If you take Kyongbu Expressway, get off at Chonan Interchange. Take 21 Road to Asan. You can see the brown signs designating the place. After about 30 minutes from the Chonan interchange, you will see Onyang Onchon Station. Onyang Onchon is about 600 feet from the station. If you take Sohaean Expressway, exit at West Pyongtaek Interchange. Take the road for Asan; turn off at road number 39 and go straight. From West Pyongtaek interchange to Onyang Onchon takes about an hour.
Telephone.: 041-540-1000.
Hours: 6 a.m.- 9 p.m.
Cost: 5,000 won (about $4) for adults, 2,500 won for children; 10,000 won for adults, 5,500 won for children for high-class sauna users(open only for men).
Seolbong or Ichon Onchon
Directions: By bus: Take the bus for Ichon. Seolbong is 5 minutes from Ichon terminal.
By car: If you take Yongdong Expressway, get off at Ichon Interchange. Take road number 3; drive straight into town for about 10 minutes. You will see Miranda Hotel on your right. Seolbong is right next to the Miranda Hotel. If you take Chungbu Expressway, exit at West Ichon Interchange. Take road number 3 and drive straight into town. After Seoulbong Park, drive two to three minutes more. Miranda Hotel and Seolbong will be on the left.
Telephone: 031-633-6301.
Hours: 5 a.m.- 9 p.m.
Cost: 5,000 won (about $4) for adults, 3,000 won for children; 3,000 won from 5-8 a.m. (except weekends & holidays).
Spavis, Asan
Directions: By train: Take Changhangsun; go toward Onyangonchon. Get off at Onyang; take bus number 100-1.
By bus: Get off at Asan terminal and take bus number 100-1.
By car: If you take Kyongbu Expressway, get off at Chonan Interchange. Take Chonan Road, which leads to Chonghop Stadium. Then take Road 628 to Ombong. You will see a tourist area and Spavis.
If you take Sohaean Expressway, exit at West Pyongtaek Interchange. Take the road for Asan, then take road number 39 and drive for about 5 minutes.
Telephone: 041-539-2000.
Hours: 6 a.m.- 8 p.m. weekdays, 6 a.m.-9 p.m. weekends & holidays.
Cost: There are 3 categories: 7,000 won (about $5.60) for adults and 5,000 won for children just for bathing pool users; 12,000 won for adults and 7,000 won for children for all facilities users; and 20,000 won for adults and 12,000 won for children for a Free Use Ticket. This enables you to leave to eat or rest outside, then return that day.
