The "Narrensprung" on Rose Monday in Rottweil, Germany, is a colorful affair, as the costumed participants walk down Hauptstrasse. (Michael Abrams / S&S)
The "Narrensprung" on Rose Monday in Rottweil, Germany, is a colorful affair, as the costumed participants walk down Hauptstrasse. (Michael Abrams / S&S)
This “Fransenkleid” carries a small model of the Schwarze Tor (Black Gate), the starting point of the “Narrensprung.” (Michael Abrams / S&S)
The “Narrensprung” (Fools Jump) begins in Rottweil, Germany. Characters wear a variety of costumes. At right, a tall “Biss” walks with a young “Fransenkleid,” followed by two “Gschell.” In the background is the Schwarzen Tor (Black Gate), where the parade begins. (Michael Abrams / S&S)
A character of the Rottweil "Narrensprung" tells a spectator a story of local happenings. Known as "aufsagen", this storytelling is a feature of the Rottweil Fasnet celebrations. (Michael Abrams / S&S)
A “Federahannes,” one of the figures of the “Narrensprung” in Rottweil comes in to tease a spectator with a calf’s tail at the end of his pole. The event takes place every Rosenmontag at 8 a.m.and is repeated on Fat Tuesday at 8 a.m. and 2 p.m. (Michael Abrams / S&S)
It is a masked morning madness. A carnival celebration of a different kind on the streets of an ancient German town.
Two-legged ponies being whipped down the street. Strange creatures in wooden masks telling stories to the people lining the lanes. Masked denizens pole-vaulting along the city streets, stopping only to tease spectators with a calf's tail at the end of the pole.
Others, wearing hand-painted costumes adorned with bells, march down the street. And when a certain song is played, they start jumping up and down in unison, their bells clanging. It is Rottweil’s famed fools’ jump, the Narrensprung.
The people of Rottweil have been celebrating Carnival — known here as Fasnet — for a long, long time. The first mention of it was in 1310. Throughout the ages, rulers and wars have tried to put an end to it all, but in the end the fools of Rottweil have always prevailed.
The fun begins at 8 a.m. on Rosenmontag (Rose Monday) as the fools pour through the Schwarzen Tor, one of Rottweil’s medieval gates.
Leading the way is a rider carrying the city’s coat-of-arms, followed by a youth band, then two Rössle, the ponies, followed by their whip-cracking drivers. Then comes the Rottweil city band, followed by the Narren, the fools of the city.
All are dressed in costumes and wooden masks, but there are a variety of fools in the Rottweil Fasnet. There is the Schantle, a distinguished looking fellow (although some might have warts) with an umbrella or a walking stick.
The Gschell is the fool adorned with bells. Its mask is the smooth face of a man. The Biss is a type of Gschell, only it is making a face. Both carry a basket or a wood box filled with sweets to pass out, and a Narrenbuch, a book filled with stories of awkward things that happened to citizens of the city during the year. Along the parade route the Gschell and Biss stop and tell their stories — known as aufsagen — to the people lining the street. Even if you speak German, you might have trouble understanding their Swabian accent.
The Fransenkleid has the gentle face of a woman and a colorful fringe costume with pompons on the end.
It is the Federahannes — loosely translated “Feather John” — that is the notorious character of the Rottweil Fasnet. Two tusks protrude from his grimacing mask. This feather-clad fool teases spectators with the tail fastened to the end of his pole, when he’s not using the pole to vault down the street. It seems as if the more you try to avoid it, the more likely you are to be teased. Being a pretty girl makes you a target, and the Federahanneses seem to enjoy stealing hats with their poles.
There are two lone figures in the Narrensprung. One is the Narrenengel, or “Fools’ Angel,” who follows the two Rössle at the beginning of the parade. It has a plain mask, wears a red and white costume and carries a sign reading “No one’s harm, everyone’s delight.”
The other is the Guller, a man riding a rooster. He can get lost in the shuffle, so keep your eyes peeled.
The Narrensprung ends with seven Rössle being whipped through the streets.
The parade might be over, but the foolishness is not. The Narren wander through the streets of the city and into the bars telling their stories to anyone who will listen.
If you go ...
When: The Narrensprung starts at 8 a.m. on Rose Monday (March 3, this year) and is repeated at 8 a.m. and 2 p.m. the next day (Fat Tuesday).
Where: Rottweil is in southwestern Germany on the eastern edge of the Black Forest, about 46 miles southwest of Stuttgart. By car, head south toward Singen on Autobahn 81. Exit at Rottweil and follow signs to the city. There is regular train service to Rottweil from Stuttgart and back.
Tips: Get there at least 1½ hours early for a front row view, especially if you want to be at the beginning of the parade near the Schwarzen Tor.
Dress warmly because you will be outside for a couple of hours on a winter morning. Consider bringing a thermos of something warm to drink. There are stands selling food and beverages along the parade route and by the time it is over, many of the bars and restaurants will be open.
On the Web: http://www.rottweil.de/neu/res/1024.htm
— Michael Abrams
