Recommended, but not for a first date: The garlic and potato cream soup at Schwarz-Kocher, near the main theater district of Amberg, Germany. (Michael S. Darnell/Stars and Stripes)
Recommended, but not for a first date: The garlic and potato cream soup at Schwarz-Kocher, near the main theater district of Amberg, Germany. (Michael S. Darnell/Stars and Stripes)
Schwarz-Kocher's steak offerings range from the more traditional to the slightly more adventurous. Purists and novelty seekers alike can find something to enjoy here, such as this garlic-crusted steak. (Michael S. Darnell/Stars and Stripes)
Schwarz-Kocher may be a steakhouse, but the culinary staff clearly has a love affair with the potato. These rolled potato dumplings were only one of the dozens of potato dishes and sides at the eatery in Amberg. (Michael S. Darnell/Stars and Stripes)
The apple strudel at Schwarz-Kocher in Amberg, Germany, looked great, but wasn't really worth the price. (Michael S. Darnell/Stars and Stripes)
Potatoes are used in every conceivable way at Schwarz-Kocher in Amberg, Germany, including in this interesting, yet unsatisfying sweetened potato crepe. (Michael S. Darnell/Stars and Stripes)
Finding the greatest steakhouse in Bavaria has become somewhat of an obsession of mine.
I have visited some terrible places and some mediocre, but only a few great restaurants. To that list, I am happy to add Schwarz-Kocher in the beautiful hamlet of Amberg, south of Grafenwöhr.
Located near the theater district, Schwarz is impossible to miss, with its inviting archway and German/English signs.
Schwarz’s German/English menu offers not only a reprieve from the normal German fare, but also innovative interpretations of the oft-overlooked steak accouterment, the normally dull potato.
The menu is resplendent with a variety of potato dishes. There is an absolutely sublime garlic and potato cream soup (not to be eaten on a first date), potato crepes (both savory and sweet), potato gnocchi and four-five? roast potato plates.
Of course, as much as Schwarz’s chef would like the potato to be the star of the restaurant, I came for steak. Tenderloin filet and a rumpsteak are the main cuts available at Schwarz, with a variety of preparations. I chose a garlic-crusted filet, medium rare.
With steakhouses, the line between good and “I’m never coming back” depends almost entirely on the quality of the beef and the skill of the chef. A great piece of meat can be completely ruined by the wrong trimming or cooking. At Schwarz’s the steak was trimmed perfectly and served actually medium rare, which is harder to get at most steakhouses than one might imagine. It was easily the best steak I’ve had in months. My only quibble was that the food was served on cool plates.
If I had stopped at the main course, my experience would have been perfect. However, we sampled desserts, which I would suggest avoiding if you go. And you should go, but be advised that sweets are not their strong suit.
A sweetened potato crepe filled with ice cream used the same batter as for the appetizer and was unimaginative. The apple strudel was undercooked, doughy and bland. In short, the desserts simply weren’t worth the price.
Luckily, everything else is. Schwarz is perhaps not a place one can afford to go to every week, but a romantic holiday coming up would be a perfect occasion to splurge a little on a quality meal. I don’t know if it’s the best steakhouse in Bavaria, but it’s certainly in the running.
Schwarz-Kocher
Address: Georgenstrasse 65, 92224 Amberg, Germany
Times: 5 p.m.-midnight Tuesday through Sunday; closed Monday.
Costs: The appetizers begin at about 4 euros, with the higher end topping off at about 8 euros. There is a nice selection of largely potato-based vegetarian dishes that hover around the 10-euro range, and the carnivorous offerings range from 14 euros to 20 euros.
