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The brilliant blue of the Mediterranean Sea as seen from the dizzying height of the “Terrazza dell’Infinito” (“terrace of infinity") at the Villa Cimbrone in Ravello, Italy.

The brilliant blue of the Mediterranean Sea as seen from the dizzying height of the “Terrazza dell’Infinito” (“terrace of infinity") at the Villa Cimbrone in Ravello, Italy. (Sandra Jontz / S&S)

The brilliant blue of the Mediterranean Sea as seen from the dizzying height of the “Terrazza dell’Infinito” (“terrace of infinity") at the Villa Cimbrone in Ravello, Italy.

The brilliant blue of the Mediterranean Sea as seen from the dizzying height of the “Terrazza dell’Infinito” (“terrace of infinity") at the Villa Cimbrone in Ravello, Italy. (Sandra Jontz / S&S)

A sign written in English stands as testimony to the number of tourists who visit Ravello.

A sign written in English stands as testimony to the number of tourists who visit Ravello. (Sandra Jontz / S&S)

Ravello seems to inspire romance, as a couple walk arm-in-arm through the Villa Cimbrone, a landmark hotel where, in 1938, Hollywood diva Greta Garbo rendezvoused with her Russian lover, Leopold Stokowski.

Ravello seems to inspire romance, as a couple walk arm-in-arm through the Villa Cimbrone, a landmark hotel where, in 1938, Hollywood diva Greta Garbo rendezvoused with her Russian lover, Leopold Stokowski. (Sandra Jontz / S&S)

If there’s a heaven on Earth, it might be the town of Ravello perched high on the famous Italian Amalfi Coast.

“Breathtaking.”

That was the sole word visitor Daniela Mazzarino, 34, could whisper one bitterly cold afternoon in January as she scanned the brilliant blue of the Mediterranean Sea while standing on the Terrazza dell’Infinito — the “terrace of infinity.” The terrace is part of Villa Cimbrone, a landmark hotel, where in 1938, Hollywood diva Greta Garbo would rendezvous with Russian lover Leopold Stokowski.

“It’s as if you’re in another world,” Mazzarino said after regaining a bit of composure from a dizzyingly spectacular perch about 1,100 feet above sea level.

The village of Ravello is a mosaic of ancient villas, cobbled narrow walkways, picturesque churches, quaint restaurants and mid- to high-priced souvenir and art shops that decorate a mountainside of the Amalfi Coast, a mountain that seems to jut out straight from the Gulf of Salerno.

It is said to have captured the imagination of composer Richard Wagner, who wrote his “Parsifal” opera here. During the summer months, the Villa Rufolo hosts Wagnerian concerts in its gardens, and from March through October, offers guests chamber music concerts.

Historians have traced the origins of Ravello to the fourth and fifth centuries, when Roman noblemen sought sanctuary from barbarians by flocking to the mountainous region along the coast. Today it has a population of about 2,000.

The drive, roughly an hour from Naval Support Activity Naples, is not for those quick to get queasy.

The two-lane road presents drivers with nerve-wracking hairpin bends. Motorcyclists seem to pass with little warning at warp speeds. In the summer, the narrow roadways can get congested.

Visitors to Ravello can see Roman and medieval architecture, churches and gardens in addition to the stunning panoramas. At the village’s heart is an impressive cathedral of white marble, the Duomo, built in 1086.

But the ancient town is not wheelchair or stroller friendly, making many parts of the city inaccessible to those who cannot visit on foot.

On the QT ...

DIRECTIONS: Take Autostrada A3, Napoli-Reggio Calabria, toward Salerno for about 28 miles, then take exit for Vietri sul Mare. Follow state roadway SS 18 toward Tirrena Inferiore, and then SS 163 toward Amalfitana. Ravello is about 15 miles from Vietri sul Mare. Follow blue signs for Ravello. Public transportation is available on blue SITA buses that run from Salerno to Amalfi, Amalfi to Sorrento and Amalfi to Ravello. Ferries also connect some principal towns on the coast. For times and cost, call the company, Travelmar, at (+39) 089-872-950.

TIMES: Villas and shops are open year-round. Popular tourist destination Villa Rufolo offers chamber music from March to October.

COSTS: A portion of the highway between Naples and Ravello has a 1.40-euro toll. Parking is available on an hourly basis in a designated lot at the foot of the town entrance, or on the street. The Circumvesuviana local train to Sorrento, about an hour’s ride, costs 3.50 euros, and a SITA bus the rest of the way costs between 1.80 and 2.20 euros. Ferry/hydrofoil prices vary depending on station and season. On average, they cost about 20 euros.

FOOD: Dining in Ravello is limited to about a half-dozen small Italian restaurants and pizzerias around the main square and on a few side streets.

INFORMATION: More information is available at www.ravello.it/aziendaturismo. There is a tourist office in the main square of Piazza Duomo; phone (+39) 089-857096.

— Sandra Jontz

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