A beautiful view towards Bonn, Germany, beyond Schloss Drachenburg from the hiking trail enroute to the top of Drachenfels, or Dragon's Rock. (Eric A. Brown/Stars and Stripes)
A beautiful view towards Bonn, Germany, beyond Schloss Drachenburg from the hiking trail enroute to the top of Drachenfels, or Dragon's Rock. (Eric A. Brown/Stars and Stripes)
High above the Rhine River, one has exceptional views of the North Rhine-Westphalia region of Germany from Drachenfels near Bonn. (Eric A. Brown/Stars and Stripes)
Besides an impressive collection of reptiles, stained glass and art, kids will enjoy the dragon's cave and its 40 foot long dragon guarding the entrance to the Niebelungenhalle above the Rhine River town of Koenigswinter, Germany. (Eric A. Brown/Stars and Stripes)
The Sea life aquarium near the riverfront in Königswinter, Germany, is a great place to start or end your journey to the top of Drachenfels. (Eric A. Brown/Stars and Stripes)
The pedestrian shopping district in Königswinter, Germany, is quaint, but not crowded during the winter months. (Eric A. Brown/Stars and Stripes)
Nelson, the dachshund, cautiously leads the way down from the top of Drachenfels, near Königswinter, Germany. (Eric A. Brown/Stars and Stripes)
Perched high above the Rhine River sits an igneous rock formation which, according to legend, was home to a fire-breathing dragon that terrorized residents in the surrounding villages.
Located just 90 minutes north of Wiesbaden, near Bonn, Drachenfels, or Dragon’s Rock, overshadows the resort town of Königswinter. Bustling with tourists in summer, the area is quieter this time of year.
Lured by the name “Dragon’s Rock,” I chose to tackle Drachenfels before exploring the town below.
The Drachenfels Bahn, a cog railway, which has been in operation since 1883, is a unique way to get to the top of Drachenfels, though it does not run in December, resuming operations in January.
During my mid-November visit, I chose to expend some energy and hike to the top with my impatient dachshund, Nelson, leading the way.
The hiking path starts out steep, offering spectacular views along the way. Roughly a third of the way up is the Nibelungenhalle, a domed structure housing a reptile zoo, where relatives of the dragon, Fafnir, such as crocodiles and alligators, still live.
The exhibits there include the cave where Siegfried is alleged to have slain the dragon.
At the halfway point along the trail is the cog train’s intermediate station and location of the spectacular neo-Gothic Schloss Drachenburg, a beautiful mixture of villa, mansion and castle constructed in the 19th century. Drachenburg has its own fascinating history. Plans to turn it into an amusement park around 1910 failed. During World War II, the Nazis used it as a school for the elite for a time. The damaged castle was then occupied by the Americans; later, refugees were housed there. A lengthy restoration project was completed in 2010.
Drachenburg is open for public and private tours, includes a bistro and gift shop and is a great place to take a break before tackling the last leg of the hike to the top of Drachenfels.
About a 10-minute hike past rock bluffs reinforced with concrete, steel anchors and caging to hold back intimidating boulders, Burg Drachenfels is well worth the effort.
The top offers some of the most commanding views of the Rhine River valley I’ve seen. From the summit, which reaches nearly 1,000 feet, I could almost make out Cologne’s famed cathedral, despite poor weather.
For a sheltered view, visitors can wander over to the glass enclosed Drachenfels restaurant and café.
After warming up with a hot coffee, I thought twice about walking back down and considered riding the rail — but Nelson convinced me otherwise.
brown.eric@stripes.com
Drachenfels (Dragon’s Rock)
ADDRESS
Drachenfelsstrasse 53, 53639 Königswinter
TIMES
• The Drachenfels cog rail is open daily and runs every half-hour during the summer. It is closed mid-November through the end of the year. Departure times during the off-season vary, so check the timetable on its website or the times clearly posted at the station.
• The reptile zoo is open daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. from March 15 through Nov. 1.
• Schloss Drachenburg is open daily 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. from April to Nov. 2; weekends noon to 5 p.m. from Nov. 3 to March 27. Closed Dec. 22 to Jan. 6.
COSTS
• The Drachenfels cog rail costs 10 euros for an adult round-trip ticket (8 euros one-way) and 5.50 euros for a child’s round-trip ticket (5 euro one-way); groups of 15 or more receive additional discounts.
• Entrance to the reptile zoo costs 5 euros for adults and 3 for children 3-14 years old.
FOOD
An assortment of restaurants and cafes are located in Königswinter; however, at the top of Drachenfels is a restaurant with a glass dining area overlooking the Rhine River valley. Prices range from 8.50 euros to about 10 euros. Kids menu items are 6.50 euros. Make reservations at info@der-drachenfels.de.
INFORMATION
• Drachenfels: der-drachenfels.de
• Cog railway: drachenfelsbahn-koenigswinter.de
• Reptile zoo: nibelungenhalle.de
• Schloss Drachenburg:schloss-drachenburg.de
