A view of the village of Les Baux and the surrounding countryside from its castle ruins. (Michael Abrams / S&S)
A view of the village of Les Baux and the surrounding countryside from its castle ruins. (Michael Abrams / S&S)
A view of Les Baux citadel from its Saracen Tower. Parts of the castle date to the 12th century, but the area has been occupied since the second century B.C. (Michael Abrams / S&S)
The 17th-century Chapelle (chapel) des Penitents Blancs and the 12th-century church Église St-Vincent in Les Baux. (Michael Abrams / S&S)
Visitors wander the narrow, cobblestone lanes of Les Baux. The village is popular with tourists year round, but is especially jammed in the summer. (Michael Abrams / S&S)
This model of a catapult stands on the plateau of the Les Baux citadel. A similar one was once used in midieval times to attack the castle. At left is the 12th-century Chapelle St-Blaise, at center is the citadel, and at far right another catapult. (Michael Abrams /S&S)
High upon an Alpilles crest sits the village of Les Baux and its towering castle.
With a commanding view of the countryside, the powerful lords of Baux once ruled the surrounding villages and towns. They were a warrior lot, even taking on the House of Barcelona for the right to rule Provence. Members of the line became counts and dukes, others married into powerful families. Still others used different means to gain power and wealth.
Among the final group was Viscount Raymond de Turenne, nicknamed the “Scourge of Provence.” From the castle, the brigand terrorized the countryside and its residents, until mercenaries of the pope and soldiers of the king of France forced him to flee in 1399.
Through the years, the town prospered, but the castle and its ramparts were dismantled in 1632, leaving ruins.
Today, another invader has brought new prosperity to the hilltop town. Hordes of tourists take over Les Baux, strolling its cobblestone lanes, stopping at its shops for Provençal souvenirs and climbing its castle walls for a glorious view of the Alpilles, the fertile valleys below and the shimmering Mediterranean Sea way, way off in the distance.
Despite the crowds, Les Baux is worth the visit, especially if you avoid the peak summer tourist season. Surprisingly, for a tourist magnet, it really is not a tourist trap. The souvenirs — colorful tablecloths, Santon dolls, yellow pottery and bouquets of lavender — are no pricier here than they are in St. Rémy or Arles. Only the entrance fee to the castle at 7 euros for adults and 3.50 euros for children seems steep.
To see Les Baux is to stroll past ancient churches, stately mansions and common houses, all made of pale stone. The 12th-century St. Vincent church and the 17th-century Chapelle des Pénitents Blanc face each other on the Place St. Vincent. From here there is a good view of the jagged, cave-filled Val d’Enfer, or Hell Valley.
The Hôtel de Manville is a beautiful 16th-century mansion donated to the town by the prince of Manville. Nearby are the anciens fours banaux, the ovens where the townspeople once baked their bread.
The Musée d’Historie de Baux on Rue du Trencat is the entrance to the castle grounds. Here are two models of how the castle looked in the 13th and 16th centuries.
On its grounds are the town’s cemetery, the ruins of the communal mill, and life-size models of catapults and battering rams, like the one once used to lay siege to the castle and the 12th-century St. Blaise chapel. The ruins next door are of a 16th-century hospital. From the Iron Age to the early 20th century, people lived in the caves carved out of the rock between here and the citadel.
After seeing the keep and the rib vaulting of the castle chapel, climb up the rough, uneven steps to the Saracen tower for the spectacular view that the lords of Baux once had.
