Migration
Very good, but not great, food at Stuttgart’s swanky Zeppelino’s
Stars and Stripes
December 13, 2018
During the winter months, a seasonal menu at Zeppelino's in Stuttgart features different goose dishes. Here is a goose breast served with ginger-flavored chickpeas. (John Vandiver/Stars and Stripes)
During the winter months, a seasonal menu at Zeppelino's in Stuttgart features different goose dishes. Here is a goose breast served with ginger-flavored chickpeas. (John Vandiver/Stars and Stripes)
During the winter months, a seasonal menu at Zeppelino's in Stuttgart features different goose dishes. Here is a goose breast served with ginger-flavored chickpeas. (John Vandiver/Stars and Stripes)
Zeppelino's is an eatery in downtown Stuttgart that has carefully made but expensive cuisine. (John Vandiver/Stars and Stripes)
After a quick glance at the menu, I knew just what I wanted — the roasted venison served in a lingonberry sauce, with a side of brussels sprouts and hazelnut spaetzle.
But it was one of the most expensive things on the menu at Restaurant Zeppelino’s in downtown Stuttgart.
When you are someone else’s guest, is it rude to pick the priciest thing? And in such cases, does that preclude ordering an appetizer? Agonizing dilemmas.
In the end, social graces gave way to my appetite. The overpriced venison it would be. And for a starter, the miso-marinated salmon.
Restaurant Zeppelino’s, across the street from Stuttgart’s main station, is part of the swanky Steigenberger Hotel’s collection of eateries. The hotel, where out-of-town big shots tend to stay, also has a bar and an upscale fine dining spot called Olivo. Restaurant Zeppelino’s falls in the middle of Steigenberger’s restaurant offerings when it comes to refinement.
The prices are high. My venison was 29 euros, or about $34. The dish was very good. The meat was gamey without being funky, and the sauce was rich. The spaetzle was gooey and as good, if not better, than many places that specialize in the Swabian dish.
One of my dining partners ordered a special seasonal plate of goose served with ginger-flavored chickpeas. She liked it a lot. Across the board, our dinner party of about 10 people seemed pleased with their selections. Just not blown away. I heard no “oohs” and “aahs” as my fellow diners chewed.
At more than $30 a plate, I think the palate deserves a surprise. In that regard, Restaurant Zeppelino’s falls a little short. If the meal were on my dime, maybe even shorter.
vandiver.john@stripes.com Twitter: @john_vandiver
Location: 7 Arnulf-Klett-Platz, Stuttgart, GermanyHours: 11:30 a.m.-midnight dailyDress: Business casualPrices: High. Most main courses are in the $30 range.Menu: Available in EnglishInformation:tinyurl.com/y7s2zrre