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Hadrian's Wall snakes across hillsides near Cawfields, England, where walkers find the view worth the effort.

Hadrian's Wall snakes across hillsides near Cawfields, England, where walkers find the view worth the effort. (Ron Jensen / S&S)

Hadrian's Wall snakes across hillsides near Cawfields, England, where walkers find the view worth the effort.

Hadrian's Wall snakes across hillsides near Cawfields, England, where walkers find the view worth the effort. (Ron Jensen / S&S)

The ceiling of The Eagle in Cambridge has grafitti written with cigarette lighters by American and British in World War II. Many pubs have been serving ale to folks for centuries.

The ceiling of The Eagle in Cambridge has grafitti written with cigarette lighters by American and British in World War II. Many pubs have been serving ale to folks for centuries. (Michael Abrams / S&S)

The base where the 355th Fighter Group was stationed during World War II is now an English wheatfield. Much of England, but especially the east and south, was covered with American air bases during World War II.

The base where the 355th Fighter Group was stationed during World War II is now an English wheatfield. Much of England, but especially the east and south, was covered with American air bases during World War II. (Ron Jensen / S&S)

The bright lights of London's West End theaters. No one should live in the country that gave the world William Shakespeare and not go to a play in London.

The bright lights of London's West End theaters. No one should live in the country that gave the world William Shakespeare and not go to a play in London. (Michael Abrams / S&S)

When visiting the Tower of London, be sure to join a tour led by one of the Yeoman Warders, known as Beefeaters. They are as entertaining as they are informative.

When visiting the Tower of London, be sure to join a tour led by one of the Yeoman Warders, known as Beefeaters. They are as entertaining as they are informative. (Michael Abrams / S&S)

Smaller than Oregon, the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland could keep a traveler content for several lifetimes. And don’t worry: The weather is not as bad as advertised. In fact, the summers are pretty fabulous when the daylight lingers until nearly 11 p.m., which allows for more time to travel.

London’s West End

How can one live in the country that gave the world William Shakespeare and not go to a play in London? One can’t.

Or, at least, shouldn’t. For centuries, the world’s greatest actors have trod the stages of London’s West End, performing works by some of the world’s greatest playwrights. It is easy to find out which plays are being performed, but a bit harder to find tickets. Plan months ahead for the best plays, but don’t neglect the lesser- known ones, for which tickets can be had quite easily.

Pubs

Pubs, or public houses, are as much a part of the British landscape as green pastures filled with sheep. They are a great place to stop and have a pint while visiting someplace new. Be sure to ask the publican for the establishment’s history. Many pubs have been serving ale for centuries.

And don’t overlook pubs as a places to eat. There are few things better than shepherd’s pie or fish and chips in a 600-year-old pub with an English ale.

Cathedrals

The country is covered with world-class cathedrals, soaring monuments to a time when man’s gratitude to God knew no bounds, despite the appalling living conditions of the Middle Ages when most were built.

People have favorite cathedrals, but you can’t go wrong choosing from among several. Ely, Norwich and Peterborough have cathedrals within an hour’s drive of most American military bases. But Lincoln, Winchester, Durham and Wells, too, boast cathedrals that can top any list without embarrassment. London’s St. Paul’s is one of the world’s greatest buildings of any type.

By the way, we figured either cathedrals or castles for this list, but not both; you might have chosen differently, which won’t get an argument from us.

World War II U.S. Airfields

Much of England, but especially the east and south, was covered with American air bases during World War II. Many farms were turned over to the Ministry of Defence, which poured tons of concrete from which American fighters and bombers of the 8th and 9th air forces took off to take the fight to Nazi Germany on the Continent.

Most of the airfields have returned to farmland, with perhaps a hut or two remaining from the glory days. Some have a tower remaining. Some have monuments or plaques erected by the unit’s survivors. They are pieces of American history and Air Force heritage and deserve your attention. Guidebooks and maps are available from good bookstores.

Hadrian’s Wall

For nearly four centuries, this island nation was the northern limit of the Roman Empire. That influence is everywhere, from the wonderful Roman baths in Bath to the mosaic floors of former Roman villas found throughout much of the country.

But Hadrian’s Wall is, simply, the largest Roman relic on the planet. It once stretched 73 miles from coast to coast in northern England as protection from the tribes of Scotland. It was manned for more than 250 years, until about 380 AD. It is still possible to stand at the wall and feel for a moment or two like a Roman soldier at a lonely outpost.

Stonehenge

It seems incredible that some people have visited this ancient monument on the Salisbury Plain and expressed disappointment. Why? Did they expect the stones to sing and dance?

Work began on Stonehenge 5,000 years ago, before plans for the Pyramids of Egypt had left the architect’s drawing board. It is a magical place, solitary and quiet. Visitors almost always fall silent, as though visiting a cathedral, so it seems even the unimpressed are somewhat overcome. The best thing about Stonehenge is this: Despite all the research, no one is really sure how it was built, who built it or why.

The Tower of London

Built soon after William conquered England in 1066, most of English history has passed through the tower, much of it bloody.

For example, Henry VIII’s wife Anne Boleyn lost her head to the executioner on what is now a shady part of the tower.

When visiting, be sure to join a group led by one of the Yeoman Warders, known as Beefeaters. They are as entertaining as they are informative.

Scotland

It may seem foolish to give an entire country a solo mention. But Scotland is small and can be traveled from one end to the other quite easily.

We also mention Edinburgh, but here we recommend the Highlands and the Isle of Skye, both possessed of magic. You might prefer the Shetland Islands off the north coast. Or the beautiful lochs. Or the trail of whiskey distilleries. Or the historic footsteps of Braveheart or Rob Roy.

Edinburgh

Scotland’s capital city is an underappreciated jewel. It has architecture, history, pubs and parks. Walk the Royal Mile with the help of a paid guide to get a flavor of the city.

The castle and the Old Town are highlights, but don’t fail to explore the alleys and neighborhoods. Tours of the city now include the pub where J.K. Rowling began the first book about a young boy wizard named Harry Potter. Check it out.

Walk!

The English walk the way some people breathe. And the country is crisscrossed by public paths that have been feeling the weight of human tramping for centuries. Many paths are considered public land, although they’re on private farms and estates. Owners face penalties for closing them to the public.

Many villages and towns have walking clubs that meet regularly to meander from here to there. It’s a national pastime topped, perhaps, only by tea time.

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