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Have a hankering for a variety of meats and want to step away from Italian cuisine? Then Boi Gordo Churrascaria in Zoppola, Pordenone, Italy, is the place to go — at night.

The concave ceiling framed in wood and the Western decor emulate a ranch house restaurant you would likely stumble upon in Texas, but is, instead, found 20 minutes from Aviano Air Base. If you make your way to this Brazilian cattle steakhouse in the evening, you’ll learn that it serves more than just cow.

The wait staff brings 14 meats, such as parmesan crusted chicken, braised turkey, steak and one of my favorites — chicken hearts — to your table on a rotating basis. The chicken heart, for its size, pumps an enormous amount of flavor into your mouth, igniting your taste buds.

If eating tender hearts doesn’t get the blood flowing to your stomach, you can always wait until the next round of meats or head to the buffet to enjoy baked tomatoes covered in cheese or a hearty salad, among other vegetarian treats.

The method used to serve customers is reminiscent of the child’s game red light, green light: The wait staff makes its way around the room stopping to serve meat only to customers who hold up the green side of a card that says “Si Grazie,” or yes, please. The other side is red and has “No Grazie” on it.

This beast of a restaurant keeps its Western persona during the day — the decor remains the same; the head of a bull hanging on the wall still clings to its post, peering over the tables — but makes one noticeable change. From noon-2 p.m., the menu is made up of three first courses and three second courses. From day to day the prices of the ever-changing menu remain the same. You can choose a combination of a first or second course and the buffet, or both courses and the buffet.

Lunch and dinner meals are accompanied by a quarter-liter of wine, beer or a glass of water or soda.

Dessert, a pineapple covered in cinnamon and cooked on a skewer, costs 2.50 euros.

On a workday, Pordenone’s congested traffic might put a damper on enjoying lunch at Boi Gordo, but dinner is a must.

Duhr.jason@stripes.com

Boi Gordo ChurrascariaLocation: Zoppola Pontebbana SS 13 (Piazzale Planet Bingo), 33080 Zoppola Pordenone

Hours: Monday-Thursday: noon-2 p.m., 7-10 p.m.; Friday: noon-2 p.m., 7-11 p.m.; Saturday: 7-11 p.m.; Sunday: noon-3 p.m., 7-11 p.m.

Food: Lunch menu varies daily but includes pastas and meats. Dinner includes 14 grilled meats served on a rotational basis by the staff. A vegetable-and-salad bar is provided at both meals.

Clientele: Primarily locals from Pordenone during lunch, with some Americans during dinner.

Dress: Casual.

Prices: Lunch ranges from 8 euros to 9.50 euros; dinner costs 17 euros per person.

Notes: Menus are in Italian. Few members of the staff speak English. You can make reservations, but they aren’t necessary. Children are welcome.

Information: Phone: (+39) 0434-959139; Facebook page: facebook.com/ boigordo.churrascaria

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