Winter is a cool time to go local in Paris

No matter the weather, many Parisians sip their cafe creme on an outside terrace.


By RICK STEVES | ricksteves.com | Published: November 30, 2017

The City of Light shines year-round, but Paris has a special appeal in winter. Sure, the weather can be cold and rainy (the average high in January is 43 degrees Fahrenheit), but if you dress in layers, you’ll keep warm and easily deal with temperature changes as you go from cold streets to heated museums and cafes.

Slow down and savor your favorite museums and monuments — spending one-on-one time with Mona and Venus is worth the extra clothes you had to pack. Attend a cooking demonstration, take a short course in art or architecture or dabble in a wine-tasting class. Duck into cafes to warm up and enjoy a break from sightseeing or shopping.

One of Europe’s greatest treats is strolling down the glowing Champs-Elysees in winter. From late November through mid-January, holiday lights adorn city streets, buildings and monuments and the Champs-Elysees beams with a dazzling display of lights on the trees that line the long boulevard.

Parisians love to window-shop. Do some browsing of your own along the boulevards and view the wild window displays at the grand department stores such as Printemps and Galeries Lafayette. The seasonal displays in neighborhood boutiques around Sevres-Babylone and in the Marais neighborhood (among other areas) are more intimate and offer a good contrast to the shows of glitz around the department stores.

If the weather is bad, scurry for cover to the shopping arcades called passages. More than 200 of these covered shopping streets once crisscrossed Paris, providing much-needed shelter from the rain. Galerie Vivienne, a few blocks from the Louvre, is the most refined and accessible. Passage Choiseul and Passage Ste. Anne, four blocks west of Galerie Vivienne, are fine examples of most Parisian passages, selling used books, paper products, trinkets and snacks.

It’s fun to browse through one of Paris’ many English-language bookstores, where you can pick up fiction and nonfiction. My favorite is the friendly Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore in the Marais neighborhood at 22 Rue St. Paul. Another is Shakespeare and Company; its original Latin Quarter location was a hangout for Ernest Hemingway and Gertrude Stein in the 1920s. Reborn in the 1950s, it’s now at 37 Rue de la Bucherie, across the river from Notre-Dame.

In winter, several ice-skating rinks open in festive locations: in front of the Hotel de Ville, at the base of the Montparnasse skyscraper and, in some winters, most spectacular of all — 200 feet in the air on the first level of the Eiffel Tower. The rinks are free to use (about $7 to rent skates, open from December to March from noon into the evening), though for the Eiffel Tower rink, you have to pay the tower admission, of course.

Once you’ve worked up your appetite, remember that winter is the season for the hunt. In Paris you’ll find game birds and venison on restaurant menus. On street corners you’ll hear shouts of “Chaud les marrons!” from vendors selling chestnuts roasting on coals. Chocolatiers and pastry shops do a bang-up business during the winter, serving traditional treats such as Epiphany cakes — flaky marzipan cakes called galette des rois.

One of Paris’ great wintertime pleasures is watching the city bustle while you linger at an outdoor table with a cafe creme, a vin chaud (hot wine) or best, a hot chocolate (simply called chocolat and very popular in winter). Most cafes fire up the braziers to keep things toasty outside. Or head inside. With the new smoking laws, cafe and restaurant interiors are wonderfully free of smoke.

Paris in winter offers so much to do indoors — museums, restaurants and stores beckon; the concert and arts seasons are in full bloom; and Paris belongs to the Parisians. So go local, save money and skip the museum lines that confront peak-season travelers. There are worse ways to spend a wintry day than enjoying world-class art, architecture and shopping during the day and lingering over a fine dinner at a cozy corner bistro in the evening. As Cole Porter put it: “I love Paris in the winter, when it drizzles.”

Rick Steves (ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.

The spectacular stained-glass dome at the Galeries Lafayette department store is particularly festive during the holiday season.

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