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Darmstadt, Germany's crown jewel is the Mathildenhoehe, with the Wedding Tower, the exhibition hall and the Russian Chapel. The Mathildenhoehe was the center of an Art Nouveau artists' colony founded in 1899 by Grand Duke Ernst Ludwig  The Wedding Tower and exhibition hall were built in 1908. The Russian Chapel was built for Czar Niicholas II of Russia, who was married to Princess Alexandra of Darmstadt. Built in 1899, it still holds Orthodox services.

Darmstadt, Germany's crown jewel is the Mathildenhoehe, with the Wedding Tower, the exhibition hall and the Russian Chapel. The Mathildenhoehe was the center of an Art Nouveau artists' colony founded in 1899 by Grand Duke Ernst Ludwig The Wedding Tower and exhibition hall were built in 1908. The Russian Chapel was built for Czar Niicholas II of Russia, who was married to Princess Alexandra of Darmstadt. Built in 1899, it still holds Orthodox services. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

Darmstadt, Germany's crown jewel is the Mathildenhoehe, with the Wedding Tower, the exhibition hall and the Russian Chapel. The Mathildenhoehe was the center of an Art Nouveau artists' colony founded in 1899 by Grand Duke Ernst Ludwig  The Wedding Tower and exhibition hall were built in 1908. The Russian Chapel was built for Czar Niicholas II of Russia, who was married to Princess Alexandra of Darmstadt. Built in 1899, it still holds Orthodox services.

Darmstadt, Germany's crown jewel is the Mathildenhoehe, with the Wedding Tower, the exhibition hall and the Russian Chapel. The Mathildenhoehe was the center of an Art Nouveau artists' colony founded in 1899 by Grand Duke Ernst Ludwig The Wedding Tower and exhibition hall were built in 1908. The Russian Chapel was built for Czar Niicholas II of Russia, who was married to Princess Alexandra of Darmstadt. Built in 1899, it still holds Orthodox services. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

Grand Duke Ludwig I looks down on his city from the 108-foot column on Luisenplatz, the heart of Darmstadt. One hundred and seventy-two steps lead up to the platform, which is open - weather permitting - every first Saturday of the month from April to October. The monument, a gift to Ludwig from the citizens of Darmstadt, is known to locals as ''Langer Lui'.'

Grand Duke Ludwig I looks down on his city from the 108-foot column on Luisenplatz, the heart of Darmstadt. One hundred and seventy-two steps lead up to the platform, which is open - weather permitting - every first Saturday of the month from April to October. The monument, a gift to Ludwig from the citizens of Darmstadt, is known to locals as ''Langer Lui'.' (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

The Schloss, as seen from the market place, was the former residential palace of the landgraves. Built in the early 18th century, it was heavily damaged in World War II and rebuilt after the war. Today it belongs to the Darmstadt Technical University. The Marktplatz, once quite dead except at market time, is  lined today with cafes and restaurants.

The Schloss, as seen from the market place, was the former residential palace of the landgraves. Built in the early 18th century, it was heavily damaged in World War II and rebuilt after the war. Today it belongs to the Darmstadt Technical University. The Marktplatz, once quite dead except at market time, is lined today with cafes and restaurants. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

The "Berserker" statue by Waldemar Grzimek stands on the northwestern corner of Darmstadt's market place. In the background is the old Rathaus, or city hall. It was built in the late 16th century but was destroyed in World War II. Rebuilt, it now houses the  popular Ratskeller microbrewery.

The "Berserker" statue by Waldemar Grzimek stands on the northwestern corner of Darmstadt's market place. In the background is the old Rathaus, or city hall. It was built in the late 16th century but was destroyed in World War II. Rebuilt, it now houses the popular Ratskeller microbrewery. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

The bell tower of the palace is reflected in the glass front of the Darmstadtium, a science and congress center completed in 2007. Fragments of the old City Wall have been integrated into the entrance.

The bell tower of the palace is reflected in the glass front of the Darmstadtium, a science and congress center completed in 2007. Fragments of the old City Wall have been integrated into the entrance. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

The Museum Kuenstlerkolonie, or Artists' Colony Museum, on the Mathildenhoehe was once a studio for the artists' colony in the early 20th century. The statues of Adam and Eve flank the entrance, shaped like the Greek letter Omega.

The Museum Kuenstlerkolonie, or Artists' Colony Museum, on the Mathildenhoehe was once a studio for the artists' colony in the early 20th century. The statues of Adam and Eve flank the entrance, shaped like the Greek letter Omega. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

A close-up of one of four reliefs by Art Nouveau artist Bernhard Hoetger on the Mathildenhoehe in Darmstadt, Germany.

A close-up of one of four reliefs by Art Nouveau artist Bernhard Hoetger on the Mathildenhoehe in Darmstadt, Germany. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

St. Ludwig's church at the top of Wilhelminenstrasse was built  in 1827. It is a copy of the Pantheon in Rome, at one-fifth the size. A circle of 28 Corinthian columns in the interior of the church carry the dome. A single window at its highest point is the only one in the church.

St. Ludwig's church at the top of Wilhelminenstrasse was built in 1827. It is a copy of the Pantheon in Rome, at one-fifth the size. A circle of 28 Corinthian columns in the interior of the church carry the dome. A single window at its highest point is the only one in the church. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

The lovely rococo Prince Georg Garden, with the Prince George Palace at left. Now a museum, it houses the ducal porcelain collection. At center is St. Elizabeth's Church.

The lovely rococo Prince Georg Garden, with the Prince George Palace at left. Now a museum, it houses the ducal porcelain collection. At center is St. Elizabeth's Church. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

People enjoy a sunny summer day in the Herrngarten, the former royal park that is adjacent to the university and popular with its students. The steeple of St. Elizabeth's Church can be seen in the distance.

People enjoy a sunny summer day in the Herrngarten, the former royal park that is adjacent to the university and popular with its students. The steeple of St. Elizabeth's Church can be seen in the distance. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

The Weisser Turm, or White Tower, is a landmark in the city center. It was once a corner tower of the Darmstadt's medieval city wall.

The Weisser Turm, or White Tower, is a landmark in the city center. It was once a corner tower of the Darmstadt's medieval city wall. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

The bastion of the Schloss, the former grand ducal palace, today features a popular beer garden when the weather is nice. The palace now belongs to the Darmstadt Technical University.

The bastion of the Schloss, the former grand ducal palace, today features a popular beer garden when the weather is nice. The palace now belongs to the Darmstadt Technical University. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

One of Darmstadt's newer attractions is the Waldspirale, or as it is better known, the Hundertwasserhaus. It was designed by the late  Friedensreich Hundertwasser, a famous Austrian architect and painter, and opened in 2000.

One of Darmstadt's newer attractions is the Waldspirale, or as it is better known, the Hundertwasserhaus. It was designed by the late Friedensreich Hundertwasser, a famous Austrian architect and painter, and opened in 2000. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

The Achteckiges Haus, or eight cornered house, on Mauerstrasse, was built in the early 17th century and has been used for many thing over the years.. Today its basement is a popular jazz cellar.

The Achteckiges Haus, or eight cornered house, on Mauerstrasse, was built in the early 17th century and has been used for many thing over the years.. Today its basement is a popular jazz cellar. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

This artwork  on a staircase on Darmstadt's Luisencenter mall features many of the sights of the German city,

This artwork on a staircase on Darmstadt's Luisencenter mall features many of the sights of the German city, (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

The Staatstheater and Buechnerplatz in Darmstadt, Germany. The State Theater opened in 1972. The large square, named after German writer Georg Buechner, has been recently remodeled and is a popular gathering place.

The Staatstheater and Buechnerplatz in Darmstadt, Germany. The State Theater opened in 1972. The large square, named after German writer Georg Buechner, has been recently remodeled and is a popular gathering place. (Michael Abrams/Stars and Stripes)

Let’s take a trip to Gut City.

Name not appealing? Well, that’s the literal translation of Darmstadt, but that’s probably not the origin of this central German city’s name. It possibly was named after a medieval nobleman named Darmunde.

Darmstadt calls itself a “City of Science.” It’s home to a university and college, the European Space Agency, chemical giant Merck and a host of software companies. It also once was home to the margraves and grand dukes of Hesse and the wife of the last Russian czar, and it was the center of the German Art Nouveau movement.

First mentioned in the 11th century as Darmundestat, it belonged to the counts of Katzenelenbogen and fell to the landgraves of Hesse in 1479. From then until the end of World War I, the margraves, the grand dukes and their wives left their impressions on the city, building theaters, parks and palaces.

On Sept. 11, 1944, a British air raid killed more than 9,000 people and destroyed half of the city’s buildings, including most of its center. After the war, hasty rebuilding left the city rather uninspiring, but the ducal palace, the old city hall and some other buildings were restored.

A good place to start a visit to Darmstadt is Luisenplatz, at the city’s center, with a statue of Grand Duke Ludwig I atop a 100-foot-tall column.

Beyond the square you can see the Schloss, the ducal palace, a conglomeration of buildings comprising various architectural styles through the centuries. Today it belongs to the Technical University.

Across the street is the Marktplatz, which has a big market on Saturday, but the cafes and restaurants lining the square are open daily. At its head stands the rebuilt 16th-century old city hall, with its popular micro-brewery.

Behind the palace is the Darmstadtium, a modern congress center completed in 2007 with fragments of the old city wall integrated into the entrance.

To its right is the Erich-Ollenhauer-Promenade, a path that leads up to the jewel in the grand duke’s crown, the Mathildenhoehe.

In 1899, Grand Duke Ernst Ludwig invited seven Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) artists to work and live in Darmstadt. Building a colony of houses and studios into their plans, they created a body of work that, when exhibited in 1901, made the city the center of the German Art Nouveau movement. More exhibits were held in 1904, 1908 and 1914.

Also in 1899, Russian Czar Nicholas II, who was married to Princess Alexandra of Darmstadt, had a small Orthodox chapel built here.

It was in honor of another marriage, that of Ernst Ludwig, that gave Darmstadt its most famous landmark, the Wedding Tower. Built in 1908, the 157-foot-high tower is also called the Five Finger Tower because of its hand-like form.

The artists’ studio is now the Artists’ Colony Museum.

Heading back into town via Dieburgerstrasse, you come to Mauerstrasse. Here you are in the student district with pubs, clubs and cafes. Check out the Achteckiges Haus, an eight-cornered, 17th-century building that houses a jazz cellar.

Nearby is the university and the Herrngarten, formerly a grand ducal park. Attached to it is the Prinz George Garten, a rococo garden with a small 17th-century palace that houses the grand dukes’ porcelain collection.

From Luisenplatz, walk up Wilhelminenstrasse to St. Ludwig’s Church. It is a copy of the Pantheon in Rome, at one-fifth the size, but its dome is still about 100 feet across.

From the end of World War II to 2008, Darmstadt was home to thousands of U.S. servicemembers and their families. Today, two of the facilities, Jefferson Village and Kelly Barracks, house refugees, while Cambrai-Fritsch Casern stands empty. A new city quarter is being established in Lincoln Village where new houses will be built and many of the old ones are being renovated.

abrams.mike@stripes.com

Darmstadt, Germany

DIRECTIONS

Darmstadt is just off Autobahn A5 and A67, about 30 miles southeast of Wiesbaden. It is about 65 miles from Kaiserslautern. There is a direct train from Wiesbaden to Darmstadt. Once there, take bus F, K or H or tram 2, 3 or 5 to Luisenplatz. There are no direct trains from Kaiserslautern.

TIMES

Any time, but a nice sunny day is best. Museums are closed Mondays.

COSTS

There is no free parking in the city center, and parking garages are not cheap. Be prepared to pay 2 euros per hour at most places.

FOOD

There are plenty of restaurants in all price classes, many on the market square. When the weather is nice there is an outdoor cafe on the Mathildenhoehe as well as a beer garden on the palace’s bastion.

INFORMATION

Go to www.darmstadt.de and click on the British flag for English-language info on the city.

The tourist information center is on Luisenplatz, on the left corner of the Luisencenter mall.

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