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The lamp posts along the coastal street of Via Francesco Caracciolo are crowded with padlocks, many inscribed with the names of couples pledging their love.

The lamp posts along the coastal street of Via Francesco Caracciolo are crowded with padlocks, many inscribed with the names of couples pledging their love. (Photo courtesy of Shaun Knittel)

The lamp posts along the coastal street of Via Francesco Caracciolo are crowded with padlocks, many inscribed with the names of couples pledging their love.

The lamp posts along the coastal street of Via Francesco Caracciolo are crowded with padlocks, many inscribed with the names of couples pledging their love. (Photo courtesy of Shaun Knittel)

Rickshaws for rent along Riviera di Chiaia.

Rickshaws for rent along Riviera di Chiaia. (Photo courtesy of Shaun Knittel)

Yes, the Riviera is in France and northern Italy.

But there is another Riviera located in downtown Naples. And while you probably won’t see anyone shooting a James Bond film on Riviera di Chiaia, it is one of the more historic streets in Naples, in an area that offers much to visitors and locals.

But, there is another Riviera located in downtown Naples. And while you probably won’t see anyone shooting a James Bond film on Riviera di Chiaia, it is one of the more historic streets in Naples, in an area that offers much to visitors and locals.

The street is flanked by Piazza Vittoria to the east, and runs into Piazza di Repubblica just by the U.S. Consulate. The most striking architectural feature on Riviera di Chiaia is the Villa Pignatelli, a classical structure that now houses a museum showcasing 19th-century furniture.

Running parallel to the Riviera is Via Francesco Caracciolo, the present-day coastal street. This is one of the most popular gathering places, particularly in the spring and summer. It’s a great place to hang out and enjoy what little tranquility the city offers. This is especially true on Sundays, when the street is closed to vehicle traffic.

For those who haven’t come to terms with Naples’ customarily late dining hours, many of the restaurants along the waterfront offer full meals during what we Westerners would call “normal” times.

The avenue (it’s really too broad to be called a street) curves around to a causeway leading to the historic Castel dell’Ovo — one of the most famous sites in Naples. It gets its name from a legend that the poet Virgil placed a magic egg within the foundations of the castle for protection and good luck.

The only motorized vehicles you’ll find on Via Caracciolo on Sunday are the coin-operated, mini electric cars for the kids — and the less self-conscious adults. There are other modes of transportation available, including bicycles, in-line skates and rickshaws, all for rent to those looking for more than just a walk.

Between the Riviera di Chiaia and Via Caracciolo lie the Villa Comunale Gardens. Designed in 1877, this mile-long stretch of greenery includes one of the oldest aquariums in Europe (though it is currently covered in scaffolding for repairs) along with a music pavilion, fountains and numerous sculptures.

About twice a month, there is an antiques market in the park — a tradition dating back almost 300 years. The market features all kinds of items for sale, including furniture, religious artifacts, handmade crafts and some newer items. It is open from 8 a.m.-2 p.m. The Web site www.fieraantiquarianapoletana.it gives specific detail on which days it is open.

What makes this area of Naples unique is that it offers a variety of activities at a much slower pace than the rest of the city. Although geographically small, it gives the impression of space in a city many consider overcrowded. If you can overlook the graffiti on many of the trees lining the park, this could quickly become a favorite spot to take it all in — and relax.

Expand your Italy IQ:Best finds are in traveling

Travelers know there is a world of difference between visiting a place and actually living there.

But even a lifetime may not be long enough to discover all of Naples’ hidden treasures. There are always new sights to see, though they may have existed for hundreds or even thousands of years.

This week’s phrase reminds us that sharing in the customs of a new location is part of the adventure:

Il paese che visitate, le abitudini trovate.

Translation: The country you visit, the customs you find

Phonetically: Il pa-ay-say ke vee-see-ta-tay lay a-bee-too-dee-nee tro-va-tay

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