Walk along the river bank promenade in Metz and enjoy views of the Chapel of the Temple Knights, which today is an exhibition hall. (Leah Larkin / Special to Stripes)
Walk along the river bank promenade in Metz and enjoy views of the Chapel of the Temple Knights, which today is an exhibition hall. (Leah Larkin / Special to Stripes)
The city cathedral is a Gothic wonder especially noted for its stained glass spanning seven centuries, including some by Marc Chagall. (Leah Larkin / Special to Stripes)
A monument in Metz, France, honors the Iron Men of Metz, soldiers of the 95th U.S. Infantry Division who liberated the city in November 1944. (Leah Larkin / Special to Stripes)
A relief on the façade of the Metz train station was created in the early 20th century when Metz was part of Germany. This panel indicates the entrance for first-class passengers as only they were allowed to travel with dogs. (Leah Larkin / Special to Stripes)
Metz was an important city in the Germanic Holy Roman Empire. At one time there were 19 gates into the city; only two remain, including this one. (Leah Larkin / Special to Stripes)
Many, many years ago when I first moved to Germany, excursions to the Metz flea market were a shopping must.
We’d get up in the wee hours to arrive extra early to find the best bargains, peruse the market then drive home. We never took time to visit the city.
What a mistake. It is lovely, as I discovered recently, with a stunning cathedral, marvelous railway station, medieval square, pretty riverbanks, pleasant pedestrian shopping streets. The flea market — said to be the most important in France after the St. Ouen flea market in Paris — may still be a major drawing card, but it’s worth an overnight stay to take in the city’s sights.
The city of 300,000 is at the confluence of two rivers, the Moselle and Seille, near the borders of Luxembourg and Germany. It was part of the Germanic Holy Roman Empire in the 10th century, a free republic from the 12th to the 15th centuries, and came under French rule in 1648. At the end of the Franco-Prussian War, it was annexed by Germany from 1871 to 1918, then again from 1940 to 1945 during World War II. The 95th U.S. Infantry Division fought for the city’s liberation in November 1944 — its soldiers became known as the "Iron Men of Metz."
Start a visit at St. Stephen Cathedral — the Cathédrale Saint Etienne — a Gothic masterpiece of stone, created by joining two churches around 1220. It has nearly 70,000 square feet of stained-glass windows dating from the 13th to the 20th centuries, including some by Marc Chagall.
Metz calls itself a "city of light," as many of its buildings, including the cathedral, are illuminated at night. The cathedral is especially impressive as the stained glass windows are illuminated from the inside making a dramatic outdoor show. In 2007 the city won the National Grand Prix for Lighting from the National Academy of Street Arts.
The Metz railroad station, now classified as a historical monument, was built between 1905-1908 when the city was part of Germany. Interesting relief sculptures on the façade indicate first- and second-class entrances, as well as ticket and baggage departments. The vast interior hall is beautifully decorated.
Metz is one of the greenest cities in Europe with more than 1,600 acres of green spaces and almost 19 miles of walking paths along quays and rivers and past ancient fortifications. Since 1986, the city has converted one of its squares each year into a floral garden based on a different theme. It has won both the French and European flowered city competitions.
Next year the Centre Pompidou Metz will open, a futuristic structure to house contemporary art.
If you go ...
• The flea market, with 300 professional exhibitors and 500 amateur sellers, is held in the Metz-Grigy Exhibition center from 6 a.m. until noon on Saturday, June 7 and 21, July 5 and 19, Sept. 6, Oct. 25 and Dec. 6 and 20.
• Hôtel de la Cathédrale, 25 place de Chambre, adjacent to the cathedral, has double rooms from 68 euros: breakfast, 11 euros. (+33) (0) 387-75-00-02; www.hotelcathedrale-metz.fr
• L’Ecluse messine, 45 place de Chambre, offers a three-course lunch menu for 25 euros. (+33) (0) 387-75-42-38.
• Weekend and city break overnight packages are available from 68 euros; www.tourisme.mairie-metz.fr. There is an English version.
— Leah Larkin
