Travel
Leukerbad: Thermal waters will soothe aches after hiking, biking and climbing
Stars and Stripes
July 2, 2014
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A 600-meter long trek mainly on metal walkways and stairs constructed high above a river runs along one side of the canyon in Leukerbad, Switzerland. (Courtesy of Leukerbad Tourismus)
The Lees, Daubenhorn and Gemmi Mountains surrounding Leukerbad, Switzerland, provide a challenging landscape made for hiking, biking and rock-climbing. (Courtesy Leukerbad Tourismus)
Bikers push their bikes up a steep trail in the mountains around Leukerbad, Switzerland. (Courtesy Leukerbad Tourismus)
A hiking group enjoys the high-altitude scenery above Leukerbad, Switzerland. (Courtesy Leukerbad Tourismus)
A breathtaking walk on a swaying metal suspension bridge high above a raging river is part of a 600-meter-long trek in Leukerbad, Switzerland. (Courtesy Leukerbad Tourismus)
Even adventurous bikers can get breathtaking views in Leukerbad, Switzerland. (Courtesy of Leukerbad Tourismus)
Trails around Leukerbad, Switzerland, take hikers around lakes, canyons and grassy meadows. (Courtesy Leukerbad Tourismus)
Adventurers with nerves of steel can test their skills at rock climbing on the Gemmi Wall, which looms over Leukerbad, Swizerland. (Courtesy Leukerbad Tourismus)
Leukerbad Therme spa, in Leukerbad, Switzerland, offers family activities such as swimming in the warm waters of 10 pools, both indoors and out. (Courtesy Leukerbad Tourismus)
A family-friendly trek with alpacas, complete with a guide and picnic, is one of the many activities available in the Swiss spa town of Leukerbad. (Courtesy Leukerbad Tourismus)
The skinny metal suspension bridge swayed with each step I took. Some 13 feet below raged the powerful Dala River through a spectacular gorge. It was awesome, and a tad scary.
The bridge is just one breathtaking part of the thermal canyon walk, a nearly 2,000-foot-long trek mainly on metal walkways and stairs constructed high above the river on the sides of the canyon. This adventure in Leukerbad, Switzerland, is not for those queasy about heights. For all others, it’s fabulous.
You have to admire the engineering skills that made this possible, as well as the majesty of nature. The mountain waters surge through this narrow channel below towering, craggy rock walls and race down more rocks, creating a steep waterfall. Being in the midst of it all is thrilling.
After the hike through the gorge, which begins just outside the town, follow a path up through the woods and fields back to Leukerbad. We spotted a none-too-shy deer munching grass on our return trek.
Leukerbad, a spa town high in the Alps, is all about water, mainly thermal water bubbling from 65 springs that fill the town’s 30 pools.
Relaxing in those pools is a treat: As jets of warm water massaged my body in an outdoor pool, I pondered the mountain backdrop: rugged brown-gray walls reaching to the sky. Mist slowly descended, gradually rolling down the mountains until they disappeared and all was white. The mist had turned into snow. It was mystical, better than Hollywood special effects.
I was stretched out on a platform surrounded by bubbling water at the Walliser Alpentherme and Spa. The dimly lit ambience indoors is hushed, refined, soothing. I felt I was in one of those classy spas pictured in up-market travel brochures.
With 10 pools indoors and out, the town’s other main spa center, the Leukerbad Therme, offers a far different spa experience — more fun than repose. Children, and some adults, love the various pool slides. On one, you grab a tire and soar down nearly 348 feet of sharp curves. The tube slide has two 360-degree twists. There is a baby and toddler’s pool. Just as at the Walliser Spa, superb mountain scenery surrounds the outdoor pools. The steam bath is in a sort of spooky cave and very, very hot. If you can stand it for several minutes, you’ll be ready for the shock of the adjacent ice pool.
Thermal waters are the perfect end to a day of hiking. Leukerbad’s mountains offer all sorts of trails, some almost 125 miles, leading through villages as well as to mountain peaks. The tourist office brochure has details on hikes from 1 ½ hours to all-day treks.
For those not into strenuous uphill treks, two cable cars (Gemmi and Torrent) whisk you to the heights. From the top, you can set off on a leisurely high-altitude stroll or a more demanding trek and enjoy the views.
Leukerbad’s new “hot spot” is the viewing platform at the top of the Gemmi cable car line. The steel platform extends from the rock face. Be brave and look down through the floor, a metal grill, to wide-open spaces — a drop of 820 feet to the ground.
Experienced mountaineers will find plenty of challenge on Leukerbad’s Via Ferrata. The steep rock faces that tower above the town are equipped with 708 feet of ladders and more than 6,560 feet of steel cable leading to the summit of the Dauberhorn: 9,646 feet. A 328-foot section passes through a cave, which, in winter, serves as a channel for avalanches en route to the valley.
If you are not up for mountain climbing, try the Gemmi adventure Via Ferrata, a slack-line park below the Gemmi cable car station. For challenge it offers a 213-foot-long rope bridge and a nearly 66-foot-high ladder.
Mountain bikers, Leukerbad is for you. Choose from among five gentle, nine medium-difficulty and four advanced routes. For an even more exciting adventure, rent a monster scooter at the top of the Torrent cable car line for a rapid descent to the valley. From there, you can also join a guided trek with alpacas.
Rock climbing, paragliding and golf are other summer activities popular at Leukerbad. The town sports arena, which is used as a training base for Swiss Olympic athletes, has a climbing wall, indoor tennis courts, squash courts and a gymnasium.
Leah Larkin can be contacted through her website, leahlarkin.com, or blog address, talesandtravel.com.
Leukerbad, Switzerland• Getting there: Leukerbad is in southwestern Switzerland in the bilingual canton of Valais/Wallis. French is spoken in the western part of the canton, while German is the language in the eastern part, which includes Leukerbad.
• Costs: A guided tour of the thermal spring trail and gorge at 2 p.m. Tuesdays is free. A guided tour of Leukerbad, followed by a wine tasting, is given at 4 p.m. Mondays and costs 5 Swiss francs (about $5.60) per person.
There is moonlight bathing at the Walliser Spa, from 8:30-11:30 July 26 and Aug. 31; it costs 27 francs per person, which also includes use of the saunas by candlelight.
Guided alpaca excursions are available Tuesdays and Fridays through Sept. 7; they cost 39 francs for adults, 29 francs for children. No charge for those born in 2006 or later. The three-to-four-hour excursion includes a picnic.
• Accommodations: The family-run Hotel Alpina in the heart of Leukerbad offers comfortable accommodations and an excellent restaurant. Try the Güggeli im Chörbli mit Pommes Frites (small, young chicken in a basket with french fries): email info@alpina-leukerbad.ch.
Camping Sportarena, a three-star campsite at the edge of the village, has a restaurant and children’s playground: sportarenaleukerbad.ch.
• Food: After a day of outdoor activity, satisfy your appetite with a Swiss favorite, fondue or raclette. Be sure to try the local wine. Vineyards abound on slopes at lower levels in this part of Switzerland. For upscale dining, the Waldhaus, also a hotel, is tops for both gourmet cuisine and wines: hotel-waldhaus.ch.
• Package deals: Some hotels and apartments offer the Leukerbad Card Plus with booking. The card offers numerous discounts on spa entry, cable cars, free use of E-bikes and more: leukerbad.ch/lbc.
Family packages that include three nights’ lodging, admission to the Leukerbad Therme, round-trip on either cable car and the Leukerbad Card Plus start at 278 Swiss francs per adult, prices are reduced for children by age.
• Information: See www.leukerbad.ch.