FORDHAM — There is a farmhouse feel at the White Pheasant, making it seem less like a restaurant and more like a rustic cottage that just happens to serve food.

It’s the kind of place that aimless drives through the country were made for. After all, you can only take in the scenery for so long before a pit stop becomes mission-essential.

And the White Pheasant is the perfect place for a relaxing time out and a lovely meal, to boot.

It’s the little touches that make the food and the atmosphere at the White Pheasant distinct. From the

dried hops hanging on the wall to the fresh flowers on the worn wooden tables, it’s a breezy place with a homey quality.

And the food is just as comforting. With just about everything on the menu sourced locally, it’s a culinary delight featuring Suffolk’s finest fruit, vegetables and meat.

The prices are a little higher than your average pub but the quality is well worth the few extra quid you’ll spend.

The menu is uncomplicated, hearty and sure to turn you on to a new British delicacy or two. For example, the Cornish sprats with caper mayo dish (5.50 pounds) is both uber-English and a delicious starter. Sure, fried bait fish doesn’t necessarily sound appetizing, but give it a go. The flaky fish and creamy sauce are a sure way to whet your appetite.

There are only four main courses: wild venison (18.95 pounds), steak (17.95 pounds), pork (15.95 pounds) and a vegetarian blue cheese-and-spinach roulade (10.95 pounds.) The White Pheasant keeps its bill of fare simple but does it right.

For a slightly smaller and slightly cheaper meal, choose the sausage and mash (9.95 pounds); ham, eggs and chips (8.95 pounds); or the steak sandwich (8.95 pounds) from the "snack" section of the one-page menu.

Check out the "Fen man’s Docky" (9.95) for a true taste of the country. Served on a large, wooden cheese board, it comes with a slab of ham, local cheeses, pâté, pickled onion, chutney, bread and pickles.

Though it’s listed as a side dish, order the fried asparagus and shallots in cider batter for an appetizer. You won’t be sorry.

Owners Liz and Stuart Trangmar acquired the White Pheasant in November 2001 with the aim of offering top-quality food without airs, according to the restaurant’s Web site. And judging by the great food, lovely atmosphere and busy dining room, the Trangmars are spot-on.

Location: 21 Market St., Fordham, CB7 5LQ

Phone: 01638-720414

Web site:www.whitepheasant.com

Reservations recommended, credit cards accepted