CAMBRIDGE — Do the British use a knife and fork to eat everything?

Well, it appears that way after a meal out at Pizza Express, the ubiquitous chain that also hawks its signature dish in frozen form at major supermarkets.

I was hoping to chow down on my Etna pie (9.45 pounds) as soon as it arrived at the table on a recent night out at one of the two Pizza Express restaurants in Cambridge. But darn it, I had to make time to cut it first. It’s not as easy as it may seem when the plate and the pizza are the same size. Still, I managed. Rough stuff, I know.

The Etna is one of three Romana pizzas on the menu. Stretched thinner than the "classic" pizzas, these pies are supposed to highlight the bold ingredients they carry, such as the sweet and fiery roquito peppers and smoky speck ham on the Etna.

Be warned, they don’t call it the Etna for nothin’. Like the active Sicilian volcano for which it’s named, the pizza is hot and fiery. "Feisty" is how my waiter described it as he brought more water to my table during the meal.

"Here, I’ll leave the whole pitcher," he said with a smile. "That pizza is no joke."

The sweet peppers tempered the heat and all the flavors balanced very nicely, though the crust could have definitely been crispier. But for the record, I drank every drop of water my thoughtful server delivered without request.

Accompanied by a mixed side salad (3.15 pounds) with a tasty house dressing, my pizza dinner was worth leaving the house for instead of ordering in.

You can almost miss the Pizza Express on Jesus Lane in Cambridge because of the ornate columned façade it sits behind — tacky on the outside but cool once you get past the "My Big Fat Greek Wedding"-style entrance.

Nice lighting and modern-yet-comfortable seating make it a decent dinner date destination, but it’s more of a place to eat some pizza with friends and catch up.

Peter Boizot opened the first Pizza Express in Soho in London in 1965. His goal was to serve good, fresh pizza to the British masses in a hip atmosphere, according to the restaurant’s Web site.

Well, Mr. Boizot, mission accomplished. Not only was it a pleasant dining experience, it was the best pizza I’ve had since moving to this country.

But if you’re not up to eating out, the take-away menu at Pizza Express offers up a lion’s share of the main menu excluding just a few specialties like the Romano pizzas and pastas. There’s also a "Piccolo" menu for kids, which includes starters, pizzas, desserts and even a "bambinoccino" — a cappuccino without the coffee.

And if you’re really feeling like lounging in front of the TV with a few slices, opt for a frozen Pizza Express pizza from your local supermarket. Unlike many of the other British brands of frozen pizza, they won’t disappoint.

To see previous After Hours reviews, go to legacy.stripes.com/afterhours