Handlers show the horses to the crowd before the beginning of each race. While racing aficionados carefully inspect the parade, many novice race goers simply check it out for a peek at the animals. (Charlie Reed / Stars and Stripes)
NEWMARKET — No tour in the United Kingdom should be complete without a trip to the races.
The renowned flat racing in this racing capital wraps up for the season with a slew of races through November. However, jumping courses throughout England and Scotland are open during the winter months.
But Newmarket is the place for racing. If you have the opportunity, go with some British friends who’ve been before and leave the car at home. There’s nothing better than you and your mates toasting a day at the races with a glass of champagne, the ladies in hats and the lads in suits.
There is no dress code, but the races are best enjoyed when you do it up. It’s the perfect adult outing, an entertaining combination of sport, fashion and gambling.
Making your way through Newmarket on a race day is an event itself. The high street bustles with cars and coaches en route to Rowley Mile, the historic stretch of turf where the ponies have been racing for centuries. Although the world of British horse racing is rooted in royalty, the scene in Newmarket on those days is akin to a college town on a big game day. You can feel the excitement in the air and the crowd somehow adds to the thrill, although traffic can come to a standstill as you make your way to the course on the outskirts of town.
Still, even if you drive to the races, the free field parking is easily accessible and close to the entrance. It probably helps that a lion’s share of spectators come in by the busload from throughout the U.K.
Don’t rush to the races. Leave the hurrying to the horses. It’s a day that should be enjoyed to the fullest, which is possible even when the weather is less than cooperative if you go with the right friends. Get there early and enjoy a drink in the beer garden at the front gates. Brimming with all sorts of characters — young and old, dressed to the nines and dressed in jeans — the people-watching is top-notch.
However, it’s the main event that is truly exhilarating. You can bet as little as 2 pounds on each race. There are usually about eight that take place over a four-hour period.
Again, this is where it pays to go with someone who has wagered on horse races in Britain before. But don’t fret if you can’t. Just figure out how much you want to bet and walk up to one of the betting stalls lined up on the steps in front of the track.
Unlike the American system, British bets can be placed with a variety of independent bookies instead of with the house. Each booking agent calculates its own odds and has different rules for placing bets and payoffs.
"It’s more interesting this way than just walking behind the counter inside like they do in America," said Virginia Dyer, an Essex-based agent who travels the country throughout the year.
"You’ve just got to come to taste the atmosphere," Dyer said. "You get people who don’t know what they’re doing the first time they walk up and by the second race they know exactly how they want to bet."
Choosing horses can be simple or complex, depending on your take. Each horse’s odds are calculated on the betting boards and in the newspaper. However, even longtime race-goers often pick their would-be winner on name alone.
"You see that a lot," Dyer said. "People get a feeling about a name and go with it. … So even if you don’t know what you’re doing you should go just to get a taste of the atmosphere."
Getting there
Upcoming races at Rowley Mile in Newmarket:
Oct. 17 — Thoroughbred Breeder’s Association Race Day
Oct. 18 — Champions’ Day
Oct. 31 — Champions’ Day finals
Nov. 1 — Bet 365 Day
Tickets cost between 5 and 32 pounds depending on seating and are cheapest if booked online.
Log on to www.newmarketracecourses.co.uk for more information.