WATERBEACH — Washed in candlelight, The Bridge is the picture-perfect pub on the water.

Good lighting is hardly a reason for trying out a new restaurant, but the food is just as comforting and warm as the ambience.

Nestled along the River Cam between Cambridge and Ely, the former hotel has a spacious dining room and waterfront seating. Although the chilly temperatures have made dining outside slightly less appealing in recent weeks, The Bridge will begin firing up the heating lamps this week, said manager Suzanne Allen.

Built in 1765, the old inn was once a hub for the Clayhithe ferry, which took locals and travelers across the water before the nearby iron bridge was built. Long-hulled river boats dock close to the shore near The Bridge’s patio completing the scene.

It’s owned by the Chef and Brewer and opened in 2004 after a major refurbishment. Though it’s technically a chain, the food is a far cry from the ho-hum pub grub offered up by run-of-the-mill joints.

The winter menu will be rolled out later this month. Although it will offer a heartier array of food with a stick-to-your-ribs quality to keep warm, this year’s version will introduce healthier options and more salads, Allen said.

Still, The Bridge does the British classics right. The British beef and Bombardier ale pie (7.75 pounds), for example, is one of the best around and probably the most popular dish on the menu, according to Allen.

Try the lamb rump and mustard mash (11.95) or the smoked haddock and Grueyere cheese fish cakes for a slightly up-market take on typical British fare. The Bridge also puts out a popular Sunday roast (8.50 pounds.)

A new taster menu also has been recently introduced and offers diners a sample of the establishment’s signature dishes. The autumn taster menus are offered several times a month and cost 19.95 pounds per person. The next taster menu night will be available on Oct. 30 and includes a variety of game meats, including duck and beetroot winter salad among the appetizers, pheasant with damson jus with the main courses and berry-laden meringues for dessert.

"It’s a lovely way for people to try a little bit of everything," Allen said.

With the cozy interiors washed in candlelight and the glow from inglenook fireplaces that abound, the setting is just as pleasing as the menu. The staff is friendly, seemingly experienced and provide quick service.

And as soon as the fireside tables are set up, eating al fresco in England is not as impossible as it may seem.

To see previous After Hours reviews, go to legacy.stripes.com/afterhours.