NAPLES, Italy — Water was never far from Francesco D’Alena’s imagination. After serving in the Italian navy, he opened a cafe in the Naples suburb of Varcaturo eight years ago. Inspired by the perfect design of the nautilus shell, Nautilus — the cafe and, six years later, the restaurant — gives patrons the look and feel of the sea.

The glossy aqua-colored tile floor of the restaurant creates a tranquil illusion of walking on water, while the wood and brass fixtures — complete with circular portal windows — rival the trim of a cruise ship.

Nautilus is a popular spot for Neapolitan natives, but not because of the fine decor. And not for the wide selection of fresh seafood dishes, along with the usual array of traditional pastas, salad and meats it serves.

It’s the wine list — although wine list might be an understatement.

Nautilus sports three or four wine cellars with more than 700 varieties and many vintages. Prices go from 7 euros to 300 euros per bottle. They also serve aged whiskeys and cognacs, along with every imaginable mixed drink. There is a cocktail menu featuring hundreds of selections, and an after-dinner selection of chocolates and cigars.

Prices are very good considering the quality of the meals. They range from 10 to 30 euros for a main course, with the high end reserved for seafood specialties. Mixed drinks and most cocktails are about 5 euros.

The dessert selection is almost a vast as the wines, and best viewed in the cafe downstairs. Traditional Italian pastries, along with gelato and mini ice cream cones, fill the counters.

The staff speaks some English, and menus are in English and Italian. Reservations aren’t necessary unless you want to dine in one of the secluded private areas available for special occasions.

On a good night the cafe is packed, but large enough to comfortably handle its 150-person capacity. The restaurant seats 70 and is spacious enough to ensure an intimate feel in a classical setting. This is one of the most popular spots in this section of Naples. It reminds patrons that they’re never too far from the Tyrrhenian sea.

"This restaurant was my dream, and I wanted it to be unique," D’Alena said. "I wanted it to reflect my vision of the ocean."

To see previous After Hours reviews, go to:legacy.stripes.com/afterhours.