Gyeongbokgung Palace in the northern part of Seoul has survived five centuries of invasion and destruction, to emerge rebuilt in its present state. (Teri Weaver / S&S)
Gyeongbokgung Palace in the northern part of Seoul has survived five centuries of invasion and destruction, to emerge rebuilt in its present state. (Teri Weaver / S&S)
A view of the National Folk Museum of Korea from the Gyeongbokgung Palace grounds. (Teri Weaver / S&S)
Guards at Gyeongbokgung Palace march out of the main gate as part of a changeover ceremony. The various costumes denote different jobs for each man: the ones in green are guards; the ones in red robes with black hats, military band members; and the ones in blue are time messengers. (Teri Weaver / S&S)
A guard stands solemnly at the main gate of Gyeongbokgung Palace. (Teri Weaver / S&S)
Inside Geunjeongjeon, the main building of the palace grounds. Here Korean kings of the Joseon Dynasty would have ceremonies of state, offer new year’s greetings and meet foreign visitors. (Teri Weaver / S&S)
You can’t get as close to them as you can to the fur-hatted guards at Buckingham Palace, but you’ve got a better chance of making them smile.
The guards at Gyeongbokgung Palace in the northern part of Seoul tend to whisper among themselves and make eye contact with the visitors who stop to snap their pictures, unlike their stern-faced British counterparts.
But the men who guard the former palace grounds for the Joseon Dynasty snap to attention when it’s time to patrol or turn over their duties to the next group. They march into the palace’s outer courtyard, bow to the next team and leave in formation.
The guard-changing ceremonies, along with the opening and closing of the gates each day, are part of the re-creation of Korean history on display nearly year round. The guards did fewer ceremonial changes in the heat of August, but resumed their hourly performances Sept. 1.
Gyeongbokgung was the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty, which ruled Korea from 1392 until 1910. In those five centuries, the palace grounds were burned and destroyed several times by invaders, including one time when it was left in ruins for 273 years.
In 1910, Japan invaded Korea, and most of the 200 buildings on the site were destroyed again. In 1990, the South Korean government began restoring the site.
Eighteen buildings and sites now are open, though some renovations still are ongoing.
The guards start each day at 10 a.m. Then every hour on the hour until 4 p.m. there’s a changing of the guard.
The various costumes denote the different jobs for each guard. Those dressed in red, with a red hat, are assistant commanders. But a red costume with a black hat signifies a member of the military band. The green robes are for lower-ranking guards, and those with studded armor are called regular guards.
Entrance to the palace grounds costs 3,000 won, or about $3, though the guard-changing ceremonies can be seen before entering the palace. Admission fees to nearby museums and the Blue House, the Korean presidential house, are separate. For more information, call commercial 723-4283.
Hwang Hae-rym contributed to the story.
Know & GoWhere: The palace is at the end of Sejeong-no, near the U.S. Embassy. On the subway, take Line 3 to Gyeongbokgung Station and take exit No. 5, or take Line 5 to Gwanghwamun Station, exit No. 2.
Cost: Admission is 3,000 won (about $3), plus another 2,000 won (about $2) to get into the Gyeonghoeru area, where the kings of the Joseon Dynasty once entertained foreign visitors; Children 7 to 18 are 1,500 won (about $1.50), and younger children are free.
Hours: Visiting hours are 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. for the grounds, March through October; 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. November to February.
Guard ceremonies: Starting Sept. 1, the guard ceremonies begin at 10 a.m. and run hourly until 4 p.m.
Other nearby attractions: The National Folk Museum of Korea, the Blue House, the Korean National Palace Museum, the Insadong shopping and art district, the Sejong Arts Center.
Information: For information and an English-speaking operator, call commercial at 723-4283.
