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Under the Eagle recently opened its doors in Newmarket, England, and offers Polish cuisine. The restaurant sits near the clock tower just off of High Street.

Under the Eagle recently opened its doors in Newmarket, England, and offers Polish cuisine. The restaurant sits near the clock tower just off of High Street. (Adam L. Mathis/Stars and Stripes)

Under the Eagle recently opened its doors in Newmarket, England, and offers Polish cuisine. The restaurant sits near the clock tower just off of High Street.

Under the Eagle recently opened its doors in Newmarket, England, and offers Polish cuisine. The restaurant sits near the clock tower just off of High Street. (Adam L. Mathis/Stars and Stripes)

Smoked sheep cheese, an appetizer, comes on a bed of lettuce with cranberries at Under the Eagle in Newmarket, England.

Smoked sheep cheese, an appetizer, comes on a bed of lettuce with cranberries at Under the Eagle in Newmarket, England. (Adam L. Mathis/Stars and Stripes)

A selection of pirogi, Polish dumplings with various fillings, from Under the Eagle in Newmarket, England.

A selection of pirogi, Polish dumplings with various fillings, from Under the Eagle in Newmarket, England. (Adam L. Mathis/Stars and Stripes)

Pork knuckle stewed in dark beer and served on a bed of sauerkraut at Under the Eagle in Newmarket, England. The entree is served with mustard and horseradish and is one of a variety of meat dishes offered by the Polish restaurant.

Pork knuckle stewed in dark beer and served on a bed of sauerkraut at Under the Eagle in Newmarket, England. The entree is served with mustard and horseradish and is one of a variety of meat dishes offered by the Polish restaurant. (Adam L. Mathis/Stars and Stripes)

The rustic decor at Under the Eagle is unlike anything else in Newmarket, England.

Heavy wooden tables, chairs and benches that look hand hewn fill the dining room, where the wood-paneled walls are decorated with animal skins and silver-colored axes with long hafts.

Under the Eagle is one of Newmarket’s newest restaurants, adding a welcome dash of the exotic to the town’s mix of Asian and Middle Eastern cuisine — so common that Indian curry and Turkish kebab might as well be considered English food.

Under the Eagle offers hearty Polish fare: meat dumplings, pork stewed to delectable tenderness and vodka, of course.

I chose one of the hearty entrees: beskidian-style pork knuckle. The knuckle, or the upper portion of a pig’s leg, is nestled in a bed of sauerkraut, surrounded by roasted potatoes. It’s all served on a natural wood platter that looks like it was whittled by hand. Generous portions of horseradish and mustard are served on the side. The pork skin is almost chocolate-brown from being stewed in dark beer.

My wife opted for a sampler platter of traditional Polish dumplings, or pirogi. There is a variety of fillings to choose from. The pirogis were lightly sauteed for a crisp exterior, which my wife found very satisfying — better even than her mother makes.

Under the Eagle also offers a unique nightcap: tea spiked with vodka. The drink is smooth, the tea seeming to mellow the vodka. Though we visited on a spring evening, the tea drink would make an excellent finish to a winter meal.

mathis.adam@stripes.com

Twitter:@AMathisStripes

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