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A plate of food includes a noodle and tofu dish in a bowl; a cup of rice; and a small cup of soup.

Fukuwarai near Marine Corps Air Station Futenma, Okinawa, uses rice from Uonuma, Japan, in its mapo tofu set, which comes with soup and almond jelly cheese tofu. (Ryan M. Breeden/Stars and Stripes)

Expand your culinary palate beyond taco rice and Okinawa soba with a trip to Fukuwarai in Ginowan city for a tasteful detour into heat and spice that will leave you fully hooked.

Fukuwarai prides itself on serving authentic mapo tofu, which is rich in flavor without an overpowering spice kick. The dish is a Sichuan creation of soft, silken tofu bathed in a meaty, spice-rich oil. Depending on spice levels, it can bring fiery heat that’s enjoyably addicting.

Fukuwarai has several other items to try, from a white sparkling Spanish chilled mackerel bowl to the staff-recommended cilantro and lemon salad and chilled tom yum noodles. There are also several ramen choices featuring Chinese noodles presented with various garnishes and a choice of broths.

I ordered a classic mapo tofu set on my recent visit. For 1,250 yen — a little over $8 — I received a hefty bowl of mapo tofu, rice, savory soup and chilled almond jelly cheese tofu.

A noodle dish and spoon sit on a table.

Fukuwarai’s staff recommends the special rich mapo dandan noodle at the restaurant in Ginowan, Okinawa. (Ryan M. Breeden/Stars and Stripes)

My order arrived within minutes. The main attraction, the mapo tofu, was a glossy reddish-brown, studded with ground meat and cubed tofu. It’s served in a bowl that beautifully displays art of a man breathing fire.

This dish is delicate and silky, and the seasoning is assertive. There is a mutual understanding of texture and spice thoughtfully executed and the portions are sensible. Nothing about this dish was excessive — extra rice is available at no charge — and the almond jelly that came with the meal calmed my spice receptors.

The restaurant is filled with vibrant artwork and colorful lanterns, with carefully crafted soundtracks animating the atmosphere. The overall mood felt casual, laid back and welcoming, a lively atmosphere for solo or group dinners.

A colorful restaurant interior is accentuated by hanging lanterns.

The atmosphere inside Fukuwarai in Ginowan, Okinawa, is relaxing and the music adds to the laid-back vibe. (Ryan M. Breeden/Stars and Stripes)

Art on a restaurant wall shows a man holding a fiery pepper.

The art at Fukuwarai in Ginowan, Okinawa, suggests a fiery dining experience to come. (Ryan M. Breeden/Stars and Stripes)

A restaurant exterior includes a brick wall and an iron railing with glass features.

Look for Fukuwarai in Ginowan, Okinawa, which serves specialized Sichuan cuisine and is popular for its rich and authentic mapo tofu dishes. (Ryan M. Breeden/Stars and Stripes)

Fukuwarai

Location: 2-29-21 Oyama, Ginowan, Okinawa 901-2223

Hours: Open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 8 p.m., Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Friday and Saturday.

Prices: Menu items range from 800 yen to 1,600 yen.

Dress: Casual

Directions: A short drive from Marine Corps Air Station Futenma. There are 12 free parking spots behind the restaurant.

Information: Phone: 050-5493-1022; Instagram: @fukuwarai109

author picture
Ryan M. Breeden is a reporter and photographer based at Camp Foster, Okinawa. He enlisted in the U.S. Navy in 2015 and is an alumnus of the Syracuse Military Photojournalism Program.

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