Matsuishi near Takadanobaba Station in Tokyo, is serving noodles with bear meat for a limited time. (Jonathan Baez/Stars and Stripes)
A noodle shop in central Tokyo is drawing attention for serving a version of soba that mirrors a topic dominating recent headlines in Japan: bear encounters.
Matsuishi — a standing noodle bar a short walk from Takadanobaba Station on the Yamanote Line circling the city — is offering soba and udon topped with chunks of Hokkaido brown bear loin and shoulder meat for a limited time. The basement-level shop has made the dish a seasonal special.
Bear meat is not a staple of the Japanese diet but is considered a regional delicacy in northern areas such as Hokkaido and part of the Tohoku region where bears inhabit mountainous terrain.
In recent years, bears have increasingly entered populated areas in parts of Japan, a trend attributed to expanding bear populations, climate factors and a decline in hunters. Last year, the Japanese government deployed the Ground Self-Defense Force to assist local authorities in managing bear encounters.
The timing has drawn curiosity — and customers — to Matsuishi. During a recent visit, steady lines formed as diners cycled in and out for quick bowls of noodles.
Ordering is carried out via self-service kiosk at the entrance, with menus displayed only in Japanese. Customers choose between soba or udon, then select their protein. Options are listed in descending order as bear, pork, chicken, beef and ground pork, with prices varying by portion size.
The bear meat is served in thin strips with visible rendered fat and resembles beef. While firmer in texture and slightly gamey, the flavor is mild compared with many wild meats.
Even without the novelty of bear, Matsuishi is known locally for affordable, well-made soba. The bear option, however, has proven popular enough that the owner recently posted on X that the restaurant plans to restock as soon as possible after selling out.
Matsuishi
Location: 3-36-5, Takadanobaba, Shinjuku, Tokyo 169-0075
Hours: Open 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Friday; 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday; closed Sunday and holidays.
Prices: A medium-sized bowl of soba with bear meat, egg and green onion costs 1,200 yen, or about $7.66.
Dress: Casual
Directions: From the east exit, use the crosswalk to reach the Meiten building on the corner and take the stairs to the basement. The restaurant is on the left.
Information: On X at @matsuishi_soba.
