The United Nations Memorial Cemetery in Busan, South Korea, is the only U.N. cemetery in the world. (Yoojin Lee/Stars and Stripes)
Busan, at the southern tip of the Korean Peninsula, played a critical role during the Korean War.
As refugees fled south to escape advancing North Korean forces, the city became the country’s provisional capital. Today, visitors can explore several historic and cultural landmarks that reflect this period.
Each site is within a 20-minute drive of one another.
One option is Provisional Capital Memorial Hall. Built in 1926 as a governor’s residence, it later served as the presidential residence during Busan’s provisional capital period from 1950 to 1953.
The building is now a national historic site and operates as an exhibition hall, recreating the interior used by South Korea’s first president, Syngman Rhee.
A view of the Provisional Capital Memorial Hall, contrasted with high-rise apartments in the background, in Busan, South Korea. (Yoojin Lee/Stars and Stripes)
The Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum. The building has been used for a variety of purposes, including U.S. Army living quarters in 1945, and the U.S. Embassy. (Yoojin Lee/Stars and Stripes)
The United Nations Memorial Cemetery, the only U.N. cemetery in the world, is in Busan. As of November 2025, more than 2,300 people from 14 countries, including 41 from the United States, are interred there.
Initially, about 11,000 troops from 21 participating nations were buried at the site. However, as remains were identified, many were repatriated to their home countries in accordance with the wishes of the deceased or their families.
The quiet, peaceful surroundings reflect the noble sacrifices made for peace.
South Korean soldiers raise the United Nations flag at the U.N. Memorial Cemetery, Busan, South Korea. (Yoojin Lee/Stars and Stripes)
In central Busan once stood Camp Hialeah, a U.S. military base that played a key logistical role during the war. Known as “Little America,” it served as a hub for receiving supplies.
The site was originally used as a horse racing track during the Japanese colonial period and was later transformed into a military installation. Named after a racetrack in Florida, the camp was closed in 2006 following long-standing repatriation efforts.
After redevelopment, the area reopened in 2014 as Busan Citizens Park. Several buildings, including the former officers’ club — now a history museum — remain as reminders of the site’s past.
Another notable site is the Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum.
The building was first used as living quarters by the U.S. Army’s 6th Division in 1945 and later became a U.S. Information Service facility in 1949. During the Korean War, when the U.S. Embassy relocated from Seoul to Busan, the building temporarily served as the U.S. Embassy.
Later, it became the Busan American Center, housing a U.S. consulate office. Following public protests, the center closed in 1999, and the building was returned to the city. After renovation, it reopened as a museum showcasing Busan’s modern history.
After you’ve built up an appetite touring Busan’s showcase museums, head to the Unknown Diary on Yeongdo Island for some raw fish and cold noodles, one of the most popular dishes in Busan.
Overlooking the Busan Harbor, the cafe is set in a renovated dock warehouse from 1959.
One of its signature menu items is the Yeongdo Picnic Box. For 23,000 won, or $15, it comes with four rice balls, sweet potato mousse, grated carrot salad, ham, octopus carpaccio salad, rice cake and lotus root.
The venue also hosts culture events and art exhibitions, making it a popular stop for tourists.
On the QT
Directions: Busan is about two hours by train from Pyeongtaek Station.
Hours: The United Nations Memorial Cemetery is open daily, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum and Provisional Capital Memorial Hall are open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday, closed Monday. Unknown Diary Cafe is open daily, except Monday and Tuesday, noon to 7 p.m.
Costs: Free admission to museum and cemetery.
Information: 051-441-6565; there’s a tourist information center on the second floor of Busan Station. lee.yoojin@stripes.com @YoojinLee00
