Cows with crowns of flowers return to their winter lodgings in this seasonal Alpine event. (iStock)
Labor Day weekend tradionally marks the end of summer and the transition into a new season. And that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Those who can’t stand the heat welcome the cooler temperatures, and who among us doesn’t enjoy those timeless autumn delights such as back-to-school wardrobe shopping, cheering on the local football team, apple picking and pumpkin spice coffee?
What marks the change of season in the place you’re temporarily calling home? Here’s a look at how some of our host communities ease into their autumn colors.
Alps: Cows come home
Two words describe largely the same phenomenon: Almabtrieb and Viehscheid. In English, the word we seek is “transhumance,” literally, a crossing of the ground. As the days grow shorter and the cold temps forestall the growth of any new grass, those happy cows who’ve had the whole summer to graze in high alpine pastures must return to the barns of their respective farmer-owners. But not without a party first! Assuming each member of the herd made it through the summer season unscathed, local communities welcome their bovine friends back into the fold by crafting elaborate headdresses for them to wear as they make their descent, greeting them down in the valley with folk music, farmers markets and the imbibing of beers and schnaps. Tourists can enjoy the privilege of taking part in the following, by no means comprehensive, cattle drives:
Austria: Reith im Alpbachtal (Tyrol), Sept. 19 and 26; Mayrhofen (Zillertal Valley, Tyrol) Sept. 25–26 and Oct. 2–3; Söll (Wilder Kaiser, Tyrol) Sept. 19; Pertisau am Achensee (Tyrol) Sept. 26; Wildschönau/Auffach (Tyrol) Sept. 19; Hintertux (Zillertal Valley, Tyrol) Sept. 26; Fügen im Zillertal (Tyrol) Sept. 12 and Sept. 19. For something different, check out the Lipizzaner Stallion Drive in Köflach (Styria) Sept. 12.
Germany: The gorgeous Allgäu region is known for its vibrant “Viehscheid.” Places and dates not to miss include Bad Hindelang Sept. 11; Oberstaufen Sept. 11; Oberstdorf Sept. 12; Wertach Sept. 18; and Thalkirchdorf Sept. 19.
Elsewhere: Italy’s largest Almabtrieb takes place on the Seiser Alm, known in Italian as the Alpe di Siusi, in the South Tyrol region, on Oct. 3. The Alsace region of northeast France surprises with its Fête de la transhumance et de la tourte, to be held in the cheese-producing village of Munster Sept. 13.
Wine country: wine fests
Although they’ve been going strong for months already, it’s right about now that some of the biggest and best wine fests promise to add joy, laughter and camaraderie to our weekends.
For good times by the Mosel, look no further than the Weinfest der Mittelmosel, or Wine Festival of the Middle Moselle, running through Sept. 7 in the cute medieval gem that is Bernkastel-Kues. Sample Rieslings by the river, watch fireworks high above the castle on Saturday night and love a parade on Sunday afternoon.
Those in Italy may well find the Expo Chianti Classico, to be held in Greve in Chianti Sept. 10-13, worth the trek it might take to reach this Tuscan beauty spot. Piazza Matteotti comes alive with wine tastings of the best drops, concerts, including classical music, and artisans displaying their skills and handicrafts. A tasting glass serves as the key to unlocking the secrets of this highly acclaimed wine known throughout the world. Meat eaters can be as carnivorous as they wish at the Antica Macelleria Falorni, a butcher’s shop that started its trade back in 1806. Dodge the prosciutto hams dangling from the ceiling as you make your way to the automated wine dispensers.
Italy: food festivals
It’s no surprise that the land of good eating hosts a staggeringly large number of food festivals, known locally as Sagre, throughout the year, but particularly during the harvest season.
Rice is nice on the Isola della Scala, in Italy’s Veneto region, particularly during the Festa del Riso, a culinary celebration timed to coincide with the harvest season. Risotto is dished upon thousands of plates, with regional flavors such as saffron, chicory, mushrooms, squash and locally made sausages giving each recipe its specific character. Cooking competitions and historical reenactments add zest to the feasting, which is carried out continuously from Sept. 17-Oct. 13, making this the country’s largest festival dedicated to just one particular foodstuff.
Or spice things up with a pilgrimage to Carmagnola, home of the sweet, brightly colored bell peppers. The “Fiera Nazionale del Peperone di Carmagnola,” which runs through Sept. 6, allows visitors to this sweet town in the Piedmont region to find peppers sneaking their ways into many unexpected dishes from olive oil and gelato. One of the highlights of this event is the Maxi Peperonata, during which local chefs and volunteers cook more than 2,000 pounds of peppers into a massive stew that is then shared with all comers.
