Abraxas Osteria hits high note with atmosphere but is uneven in overall meal experience

The best thing about Abraxas Osteria also happens to be the worst thing about the trendy eatery in the Naples commune of Pozzuoli.

With a scenic outdoor dining area reminiscent of a treehouse hideout, it’s the perfect locale for a leisurely Sunday lunch or celebration. Turns out other customers agree. Fair warning: Make reservations.

Abraxas offers upscale fare with a curated menu of appetizers, pastas, seafood and sweets. But there is no doubt that grilled meats, including Australian Black Angus and wagyu rib-eye steaks, are the star of the show.

On a recent Sunday, some companions and I visited Abraxas, which was filled with birthday celebrants and other patrons. That joyful mood only enhanced the osteria’s charming patio area, with its lake, sea and countryside views.

Seating options at Abraxas Osteria in the Naples commune of Pozzuoli include an outdoor dining area reminiscent of a treehouse. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)

Abraxas Osteria in Naples features a range of Italian dishes, but the grilled beef options, including fillets and rib-eye steaks, are the real menu standouts. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)

But it also can mean busy waiters serving several parties of 15 or more. If you’re looking for attentive service, visiting on a weekday may be a better bet. In addition, the signature dishes are pricey but worth the splurge if the occasion calls for it.

On our visit, we decided against grilled meat, opting instead for a variety of appetizers, seafood, pasta and hearty beef main dishes.

For a starter, a fellow diner and I chose the insalata di Montoro con pesto di pomodoro, or green salad with tomato pesto.

It arrived nicely plated and dressed in olive oil but there was no evidence of tomato pesto. Its lack of seasoning left the dish bland, and I wouldn’t order it again.

Another companion ordered a calzone filled with salted cod and tomato sauce. The crust was crispy and the filling was ample. It was a bit heavy for a warm summer day, but my companion finished every bite.

This calzone served at Abraxas Osteria in Naples, Italy, features a filling of salted cod and tomato sauce. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)

Next came our main dishes: cannelloni stuffed with ricotta and provola cheeses as well as dried porcini mushrooms and topped with tomato sauce; braised Italian beef served with mashed potatoes; and octopus croquettes.

The cannelloni, among the few vegetarian main dish offerings on the menu, were beautifully presented and tasty, with little flecks of mushrooms. The tomato sauce nicely complemented the dish without overpowering the flavor of the cheesy filling.

But unfortunately, the waiter mixed up our order, bringing one of my companions a plate of candele, or tube pasta, with Genovese sauce.

The restaurant corrected the mistake, but it took more than 20 minutes to bring another plate of cannelloni to our table. In the meantime, the waiter left the pasta Genovese for us to sample.

Among the pasta dishes at Abraxas is candele di Gragnano alla Genovese, or large tube pasta with a sauce of simmered beef and onions. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)

Grilled beef dishes such as fillets and rib-eye steaks are the main menu attraction at Abraxas Osteria in Naples, Italy. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)

Seafood offerings at Abraxas Osteria in Naples, Italy, include octopus croquettes. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)

The pasta was perfectly al dente, and the caramelized onion and meat sauce was a worthwhile rendition of the signature Naples dish, my companions said.

One of them then tucked into the braised Italian beef enveloped in a rich, meaty sauce complemented by the whipped potatoes. Not easy to please, this person declared it delicious.

Sadly, the same couldn’t be said about the octopus croquettes, which looked beautiful on the plate but left much to be desired. According to one verdict, they were too bready and contained very little octopus.

After our main dishes, we were full but couldn’t resist trying Abraxas’ chocolate flan. Similar to a molten cake, the dessert arrived warm with a gooey chocolate center. It was delicious and easily my favorite part of the meal.

For patrons who have saved room for dessert, Abraxas Osteria in the Naples commune of Pozzuoli offers a molten lava cake among the options. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)

While the food wasn’t completely disappointing, it didn’t stand out. Perhaps overwhelmed with large orders, the kitchen may not have had its best day. But the atmosphere, dessert and wine hit all the right notes.

Although I’m not sure I’ll eat at Abraxas again, I’m tempted to return for appetizers, a good cocktail, music and the views available at the eatery’s fire pit lounge.

Abraxas Osteria

Address: Via Scalandrone, 15, Naples, Italy

Hours: 8-11 p.m., Monday through Friday; 1-3 p.m. and 8-11:30 p.m., Saturday; and 1-3:30 p.m., Sunday. Closed on Tuesday.

Prices: 8-23 euros, appetizers; 12-15 euros, pasta dishes; 12-22 euros, chicken, fish and burgers; and 7.50-30 euros per hectogram, or about 3.5 ounces, of beef. Curated menus including appetizers and main dishes start at about 60 euros per person. There also is an extensive wine list.

Contact: Phone: +39 081 854 9347; online: abraxasosteria.it