The Nashville hot chicken tenders at Tavo Soulfood in Wiesbaden, Germany, are modeled after Howlin’ Ray’s in Los Angeles. (Bradley Latham/Stars and Stripes)
Soul food has a very specific meaning for me, conjuring thoughts of mac and cheese, collard greens, black-eyed peas and fried okra, among other things.
But from one outsider’s perspective, the food that represents the spirit of a nation of more than 340 million people is much larger in scope than my traditional Southern roots.
That explains the menu at Tavo Soulfood, a Wiesbaden restaurant that opened in January and is a passion project of German chef and food influencer Bernd Zehner.
According to the restaurant’s website and Zehner’s YouTube channel, the social media personality traveled the U.S. looking for inspiration and unique recipes to bring back to Germany.
Tavo offers a coast-to-coast selection of appetizers, mains and desserts, giving Zehner’s conception of soul food a geographic range stretching from New York to Hawaii.
Zehner focuses on authentic re-creation, in some cases importing ingredients from the U.S. so patrons can experience the dishes like he did at the American eateries where they were served.
But that focus has drawn criticism on social media, with some questioning whether strict adherence to original recipes comes at the expense of quality. Zehner himself has leaned into the uproar, at one point joking in a video that Tavo’s pastrami sandwich, inspired by that of Katz’s Delicatessen in New York, uses “the worst bread money can buy.”
As I browsed the menu online ahead of my visit, I wasn’t sure what I was getting myself into. The jambalaya noodle dish from a Cajun restaurant in Miami and the Nashville hot chicken from Los Angeles left me scratching my head, but I was intrigued enough to venture into the food fray.
Tavo’s bar is decorated with memorabilia from the American restaurants that inspired its menu and are highlighted in founder Bernd Zehner’s YouTube series “Mission Restaurant.” (Bradley Latham/Stars and Stripes)
The entryway of Tavo Soulfood in Wiesbaden, Germany, is lined with photos of founder and YouTuber Bernd Zehner documenting his travels through the U.S. that inspired the restaurant. (Bradley Latham/Stars and Stripes)
A mural of the late Anthony Bourdain in the lobby of Tavo Soulfood in Wiesbaden, Germany. The restaurant is owned by German chef and social media personality Bernd Zehner, who traveled the U.S. and brought back dishes he replicates in their original form. (Bradley Latham/Stars and Stripes)
Tavo Soulfood, which opened in January 2026, is located in the Goldgasse restaurant district in the heart of downtown Wiesbaden, Germany. (Bradley Latham/Stars and Stripes)
Zehner’s likeness permeates the space, along with shirts, photos and other memorabilia from the American eateries highlighted in the “Mission Restaurant” video series in which he stars.
I was seated at the bar and scanned a QR code to access the menu. Immediately I noticed that the infamous pastrami sandwich wasn’t among the offerings. The bartender told me it had been removed because of recent price hikes on beef imports.
My German-style American tour started with the Jerry’s jambalaya rice from Mother’s Restaurant in New Orleans and chili con carne from Texas Chili House in Austin, as they seemed like some of the dishes best aligned to their respective regions.
Jerry’s jambalaya rice, taken from Mother’s Restaurant in New Orleans, is a rich, spice-forward side dish served at Tavo Soulfood in Wiesbaden, Germany. (Bradley Latham/Stars and Stripes)
The bean-free chili con carne at Tavo in Wiesbaden, Germany, takes inspiration from Texas Chili House’s in Austin. The hearty side dish is served with an additional side of rice and beans along with jalapeños, cilantro, shredded cheese and sour cream. (Bradley Latham/Stars and Stripes)
The portions of these appetizers were hefty, and they could easily have passed as small entrées on their own. Both were fresh, piping hot and seemed true to form for what I would expect stateside.
The jambalaya rice was hearty and spice-forward, but I would have preferred a touch more heat to round it out. The chili was my favorite bite of the night, delivering thick chunks of braised beef that fell apart at the slight touch of my fork.
It also brought a bit of the fire I was missing in the previous dish, and I appreciated the additional jalapeños on the side.
I went for the Nashville hot chicken tenders from Howlin‘ Rays in Los Angeles. I was still skeptical, but I had read that the founder of the City of Angels establishment had been inspired by the classic Nashville cornerstones, so I was willing to give it a try.
The two tenders were large, the fries were familiar crinkle cuts I’ve had many times over, and the coleslaw was some of the best I’ve had in recent memory, but the dish didn’t make the grade with me.
Although the chicken wasn’t as oily as others I’ve had and the flavor profile seemed right, the spice mixture was too heavy. It was very salty, and I couldn’t decipher whether there was more breading or spice mixture on the chicken.
That was unfortunate, because despite the relative moistness of the meat, the exterior left every bite feeling dry.
I brought some home for my wife to try and she said the dish seemed dusty and powdery. She also would have preferred a bit more chicken to go with her mound of smoked paprika.
The meal overall was good but underwhelming, which I guess is a testament to Tavo’s authenticity in its own way.
Perhaps it’s just me, but after living in Germany for almost seven years, “good but underwhelming” is how I would describe most dining-out experiences I’ve had in the U.S. in recent years.
The restaurant is a novelty experience likely appealing more to Zehner’s fans or folks who are looking for American fare beyond fast-food staples.
I can confidently say I can’t recall another place where you’ll find veal Parmigiana and a Pacific poke bowl on the same menu. Also, I overheard good things about the birria tacos.
And a slice of New York cheesecake or a “big rockslide” brownie might lure me back, but at the price point, there’s a long list of places I’d choose before returning to Tavo.
Tavo Soulfood
Address: Goldgasse 4, Wiesbaden, Germany
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m.; Friday, 5 p.m.-1 a.m.; Saturday, 12 p.m.-1 a.m.; Sunday, 12-8 p.m.
Prices: Appetizers, 10-19 euros; entrées, 18-40 euros. Card payment only.
Information: www.tavo.restaurant
