Cig köfte is a regional dish from the southeastern Turkey city of Sanliurfa. Roll’n’Bun in Kirchheimbolanden, Germany, offers a vegan version with tomatoes, lettuce and a wrap. One of the options, seen here, is cut like sushi rolls, topped with Doritos and is served with pomegranate syrup and lemon slices. (Matt Wagner/Stars and Stripes)
I picked up the chili-cheese smashburger at Roll’n’Bun in Kirchheimbolanden, Germany, with much skepticism.
I have struggled to find a good, American-style burger in Germany. Most eateries rely on copious amounts of mayonnaise-based or other sauces and toppings that don’t go well with a burger, in my opinion.
One bite calmed any doubt I had. My mouth picked up the flavors I had been missing, mixed with some spiciness.
I discovered Roll’n’Bun, which opened in early January, while taking a different route home from the grocery store. It intrigued me as it was the first American-like fast casual restaurant outside of McDonald’s that I have found in the Donnersberg region, some 18 miles northeast of Sembach.
The restaurant’s social media presence put me off with what appeared to be artificial intelligence-generated illustrations of its offerings. But I was so starved for such foods closer to my village that I put those feelings to the side.
Roll’n’Bun’s menu is a hybrid of American and Turkish foods like burgers, fries, chicken nuggets, onion rings, köfte and cig köfte.
Before turning to the rest of our order, I tackled the chili-cheese smashburger. Between the buns sat a patty, onions, a chili-cheese sauce and jalapenos.
As I took a bite of the burger, the jalapenos and sauce surprised me with a spicy kick, a rarity at restaurants in Germany. The sauce wasn’t fancy — more like stadium nacho cheese: silky, gooey, almost liquid gold — and went well with the entire ensemble, and the buns were rich and flaky.
We turned our attention to the cig köfte next. The dish is normally spicy raw meatballs from the southeastern Turkish city of Sanliurfa. However, Roll‘n’Bun’s version is vegan. Well, it usually is, but my colleague and I elected to sprinkle crushed cheese Doritos on top of the bread wrap cut into sushi-sized pieces.
It was surprisingly a little sweet with a crunchy texture due to the lettuce and the Doritos with a spicy tomato paste bulgur filling.
It came with a lemon slice and pomegranate syrup for dipping. My colleague tried the syrup and said she thought the cig köfte tasted better with a drizzle of the sour lemon juice on top, as it cut the sweet smokiness of the dish.
Next were the chicken nuggets. We ordered servings of the regular and chili-cheese versions.
The chili-cheese variety was filled with the same cheese that was on the burger, jalapeno pieces and chicken inside breading. We enjoyed them, but the jalapenos seemed to overtake the other ingredients.
We both enjoyed the regular chicken nuggets more. They were larger than McDonald’s nuggets and tasted like real chicken meat. The nuggets were crispy and nowhere near as salty as at fast-food restaurants in the States.
The loaded chicken fries — thicker french fries and chicken strips coated with paprika, chili cheese and jalapenos — were the last part of the smorgasbord.
The fries were heavy like a regular meal. The chili-cheese sauce and jalapenos seemed spicier than what was on the burger, but the chicken and starchiness of the potato made it manageable.
The cooks seem to still be experimenting with their menu. The day after we went to Roll’n’Bun, they added more items like loaded fries and a burger made with sucuk (a dry, spicy and fermented sausage), köfte loaded fries and a pair of salads.
Considering my first experience at the restaurant and its relatively low prices, I’m willing to go back and give these new dishes a try.
Roll ’n’ Bun
Address: Dr.-Heinrich-von-Brunck-Strasse 2, 67292 Kirchheimbolanden
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday
Prices: Sides range from 4 to 10 euros, burgers from 8.50 to 17.50 euros, nuggets from 5 to 15 euros, köfte from 8 to 12.50 euros and cig köfte from 6 to 25 euros.
Information: Phone: +49 1772571220; online: instagram.com/rollnbunkibo